270 



THE OA.NADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



strawberry, and at least three raspberries 

 that would succeed at Orillia. 



John S. Warren. 



Among the black grapes try Cham- 

 pion, Moore's Early and Worden ; the 

 first is poor in quality but very hardy, 

 For red try Brighton or Lindley, and 

 for white, Niagara or Empire State. 



Perhaps the best strawberry for gen- 

 eral purposes to plant at Orillia would 

 be the Crescent Seedling. 



In raspberries try the Turner for red, 

 the Hilborn or Ohio for black. Th6 

 yellow raspberries are not so hardy. 

 (See article on Golden Queen on p. 241.) 



13. Rust on the Strawberry Leaves. — Are 

 you familiar with the rust on the 

 strawberry ; and is it that which affects 

 enclosed leaves. 1 C. E. Brown. 



We have so little rust on the straw- 

 berry at Grimsby that we referred to 

 Mr. Hilborn for his experience. He 

 writes : " I have had strawberry leaves 

 affected with rust the same as samples 

 you sent every season since I began 

 their culture, but have met with no 

 serious results. The Manchester is 

 perhaps more affected than any other 

 sort ; sometimes the crop of fruit will 

 be somewhat less on plants that have 

 been planted two or more years, but 

 have not found any injury to the first 

 crop gi'own on any of my plantations. 

 More than one-half, of a hundred varie- 

 ties I have grown, have shown more or 

 less of that rust. Among those most 

 affected are Manchester, Wilson, 

 Windsor Chief, Atlantic, Arnold's 

 Pride, Bright Ida, Lacon, Cornelia, 

 Daniel Boone, Prince of Berries, Mrs. 

 Garfield, and many others." 



14. Pruning Currants and Gooseberry bushes 

 for fruit. — When should this be done, and 

 what is the best method. j. p. w. 



Currant and gooseberry bushes may 

 be pruned in either fall or spring. If 

 in the fall it should be done before 

 severe weather comes on, and if in 

 spring, very early before the buds begin 

 to swell. 



In pruning the currant our practice 

 is to cut back a portion of the new 

 growth, say one half This causes the 

 stems to grow stocky, and to throw out 

 a good many side branches for fruit 

 bearing. Besides this, the old wood, 

 needs thinning out. Half a dozen 

 stems to each bush are enough to leave. 



With the gooseberry pretty liberal 

 pruning is also necessary ; not perhaps 

 shortening in as with the currant, but 

 thinning out freely both old and new 

 wood ; remembering always that the 

 fruit is borne upon the latter. 



15. Making cuttings of Currant and Goose- 

 berry bushes. — When should this be done ? 

 Will cuttings of Jive inches long grow as 

 readily as those fifteen inches long ? 

 Should they be planted in the spring or 

 fall ? J. P. W. 



The best time, both for making and 

 planting the cuttings would perhaps be 

 in October ; but even in that case they 

 would be better mulched with some 

 coarse strawy manure when winter sets 

 in. If made early in December they 

 should be packed away in sand or saw- 

 dust until spring, and then planted 

 early. Cuttings of about one foot in 

 length are surest to grow, if planted 

 deeply, leaving only two or three buds 

 above gi'ound; but we have seldom 



