THE BEE-KEEPERS' REVIEW. 



125 



through using the battery, otherwise the so- 

 lutiou will become over-charged with sul- 

 phate of zinc which rouders it worthless. 

 Make all connections as short as possible, 

 as this style of battery is of low tension, and 

 would not heat 50 feet of wire 2°. 



Oh yes, it will bum a t or o volt lamp, as 

 bright as day, for a few minutes, but 15 min- 

 utes with a closed circuit at any one time 

 would rain the carbon element forever; but, 

 if the battery is used simply for imbedding 

 wires, the carbons will last for years. Before 

 connecting, scrape, or emery-paper, all parts 

 to be connected. Soldering them is better. 

 For all connections, use copper wire, about 

 No. 20. 



[If a battery of three jars proves too weak, 

 more jars can be added until the desired re- 

 sult is obtained. If any one should prefer 

 to buy batteries instead of making them, 

 they can be bought (those called the Dia- 

 mond Carbon) at $1.25 each, of the Electri- 

 cal Supply Co., 102 Mich. Ave., Chicago, 111. 

 —Ed.] 



To wire a frame attach one end of the 

 wire (use No. 30) to a tack in the end bar, 

 (See fig. 4) and after the frame is wired at- 

 tach the other end to a tack in the opposite 

 end bar ; the tacks to correspond with met- 

 al springs, S. S. on cleats in fig. 5. No one 

 part of the wire must touch another part 

 throughout its length nor any part be connect- 

 ed to the same piece of metal as another 

 part is fastened to, as if your wires cross 

 each other, there will be what is called a 

 " short circuit," and the current will take 

 the shortest route back to the battery, leav- 

 ing part of the wire "dead." If you un- 

 dertook to imbed crossed wires, only 

 that part would be imbeded that the 

 current heated, and you would count the 

 whole thing a grand failure ; yet, if in your 

 style of wiring, the wires do cross, put a 

 small piece of paper between them, just 

 enough to keep them separate, and you will 

 meet with no trouble at all. 



To rig up a table, make a drop board, just 

 thick enough so that when nailed to the 

 table, and a wired frame laid over it, the 

 frame will rest on the table and the wires 

 will be the proper distance above board, i. e., 

 half the thickness of the foundation. Next 

 make two square cleats, as thick as the end- 

 bars of a brood frame are wide. Make two 

 metal springs (thin brass) as wide as the 

 cleats are thick and fasten to the cleats with 

 screws, (See fig. 5.) Nail the cleats, one on 

 either side of drop board, (See fig 5) so that 



when the end bars of the frame rest between 

 the cleats and drop board, the tack heads 

 (to which the wire is fastened) will press 

 tightly against the springs. Have the 

 springs two or three inches long, so if you 

 don't get the tacks always in the same place 

 on every frame they (the tack heads) will 

 press against the spring anyway. 



To make the contact button take some of 

 the same metal (brass) as mentioned above, 

 % inch wide, and three inches long, and 

 bend it in the shape shown in fig 6, and screw 

 it to the table, six inches or thereabouts, to 

 the right of the right hand cleat. Just under 

 the spring or raised end, drive a brass head- 

 ed tack, of the kind used in perforated chair 

 bottoms. (See fig. G.) 



To connect the battery with the table 

 (make all connections under the table for 

 convenience as well as looks) take the sur- 

 plus carbon wire in cell No. 3, run it through 

 a small hole made with an awl close to the 

 tack in contact button, wind the wire around 

 the tack, between the table and the head of 

 the tack, drive the tack home, and that con- 

 nection is complete. (See fig 7.) Make an 

 awl hole through the table, along side of one 

 of the screws that hold the contact button 

 to the table, another awl hole close beside 

 the spring, in the right hand cleat, put one 

 end of a short peice of wire around one screw 

 in the contact button, drive the screw home. 

 Run the other end of the wire down through 

 the hole made in the table, and up through 

 the hole alongside of the spring in the right 

 hand cleat, and fasten the end of the wire 

 around the screw and drive the screw home. 

 (See fig 7.) Now take the surplus zinc wire 

 in cell No. 1 and connect it to the spring in 

 the left hand cleat, and your table is com- 

 plete. (See fig. 7.) 



To operate the "machine," place your 

 wired brood frame over the drop board with 

 the top bar from you. See that the tack heads 

 press against the spring in the cleats, place 

 your foundation on the wires, "press the 

 (contact) button and the electricity does the 

 rest." A man with nimble fingers could do 

 ten a minute. Don't you think I have made 

 it all plain ? 



MoEKis, 111., March 26, 1892. 



P. S. — I enclose small sample imbeded by 

 electricity. Examine it closely, and you 

 will find it quite hard to tell from which side 

 the wire entered. 



I am now working on what I call, for want 

 of a better name, an electrical swarm noti- 



