I- 



;\. M vK'.i ..uVAHlfHM +« WE« - I il I &% 



side or end pieces close up against A. and 

 of coarse the other edge at <' will be 

 straitened, beveled, and the piece brought 

 to an equal and proper width at one op- 

 eration, the spring stop F being pressed 

 down meanwhile; we now turn the board 

 over ami let the beveled edge rest against 

 this Btop, which allows the saw to cut off 

 on the same bevel a strip If inches wide. 

 These -trips have one square edge which 

 fits in tlu> }xj rabbet in the cover, and the 

 other edge is on a bevel just to fit the 

 bevel ofthe top edge of the hive, for it was 

 sawed off from it. To make the bevel 

 around trie top edge of the cover, stand 

 our little machine on the side A, with (■ 

 straight up; place the hoard for cover 

 after it is rabbeted, against B and K, with 

 the corner of A in one ofthe rabbets; 

 set the guage sufficiently near for the saw 

 to bevel the edge back about I of an inch; 

 when you have thus beveled the top on 

 iach Of its four sides, our hives arc finish- 

 ed except the rabbet to hold the frames in 

 the end pieces, and we now make them 

 |xl inch instead of 1} as given in our 

 circular. We .should prefer 1] inches as it 

 makes more room for the quilt, but in that 

 ease the distance between the frames of 

 the tipper and lower story is rather too 

 much, although we have for several years 

 used two hives in which the space is 1^ 

 inches with no bad results; energetic 

 ''Hybrids" even, preferring to make comb 

 in the frames and only filling this space 

 when they were "out of a job" otherwise, 

 and in very hot weather we have thought 

 that, this air space much assisted ventila- 

 tion. If we use 12 inch lumber every 

 traction of an inch in width must be eco- 

 nomized. 



Wc make the Gallup hive in this way of 

 1 t inch lumber, cutting off lengths for 

 cover and sides exactly liU inches, for 

 ends Hi inches, and making our rabbets 

 in side pieces instead of ends. Allowing 

 for saw cuts we only require about T| feet 

 in Length by 1 I inches in width, or 8J feet 

 of lumber for the hive complete; costing 

 not to exceed 22 cts. per hive when bought 

 in quantities, and the amount is just about 

 the same for the hive we use. 



"Mr. Novice why do you keep calling a 

 bodj and cover, without any bottom board 

 a hive) if two of them are required to 

 make a complete hive why not call it a 

 $2.00 hive at once instead of 'the dollar 

 hive?' And again we are afraid your 

 readers would hardly call a hive without 

 frame-, what is generally understood by 

 the term 'bee hive.' Let us see : 



A two story hive i- ....$2.00 



And 20 frame- suchas wen-cat lie 1.20 



Quilt 0.2.') 



hour step 0.10 



Ami we have expense of hive com- 

 plete $3.55 



Instead of your modest 22 cts. that you 

 were bo complacent about when wc inter- 

 rupted you." 



"There now! Do you see how much 



mischief you have made ? It will take us 

 su long to unravel your figures, as above, 

 that we shall get no room at all for the 

 Windmill, and for 'April,' we shall be 

 obliged to go over transferring, and tor 



'June' " 



Please don't borrow trouble about June, 

 for its now only Feb. 11th, but tell US how 

 in get from 22 cts. to $3.55." 



"Well, all right; now just see if we can't 

 make a good hive for a dollar." If the 

 lumber only cost 22 cts., the hives can cer- 

 tainly be cut up and nailed for 50 cts. 

 more, and frames such as are ordinarily 

 used do not cost over 2 cts. each, making 

 92 cts. ; in place of quilts something can 

 be made of old carpeting, coffee sacks, or 

 old clothing for the remaining 8 cts. ; and 

 most bee keepers that we have visited 

 place their hive on some kind of a board, 

 bench, stand, or platform, in which ease 

 no bottom is absolutely necessary, es- 

 pecially in warm weather, and box hive-: 

 very seldom have any, and now as we 

 have shown how a very durable and most 

 convenient hive can be made for $1.00. we 

 will add that ire should prefer to throw all 

 the old boards, clothes, and benches away 

 and make two of the "dollar" hives for 

 each eclony. Use the cover of one for a 

 bottom board for the one that contains the 

 bees, and all is complete during the honey 

 season; at other times ofthe year keep 

 your spare combs set away in the spare 

 bodies, piled up on each other, and the 

 workmanship should lie such that they lit 

 on each other close enough to exclude 

 not only mice but ants and moth millers. 

 In the swarming season these hives with- 

 out a bottom answer temporarily, very 

 well; see what Adam Grim says on page 

 213, Vol. 6, American Bee Journal. 



Our idea is that we want the fewest, 

 possible implements, consistent in an 

 apiary, and want those as light as possi- 

 ble and made with no superfluous lumber 

 or metals. In nailing the hive just men- 

 tioned, nail the corners well, and drive 

 the nails as near the edges of the boards 

 as can be done without splitting. Use 

 seven-penny nails to go through the whole 

 thickness of the boards and "fours" to go 

 through where the rabbet leaves only .1 

 inch. We use four nails of each size for 

 each joint, and drive them as near to- 

 gether as we can without striking where 

 they cross each other. Make up your 

 mind that you will learn to drive nails 

 just where they should be, and don't let 

 their points ever show themselves by run- 

 ning out of the wood. Make your hives 

 such that they will never come apart or 

 loose if used yearly for a lifetime, even if 

 they have no stationary top or bottom. 

 Paint them as soon as done with the 

 Averill chemical paint, ( white, )"and keep 

 tin in painted. Wc should never use any 

 thing but pi ue lumber after what experience 

 we have had with other kinds. 



We are just advised ofthe sad intelli- 

 gence of the death of Mrs. Langstroth. 



