12 BOOK OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 



very highly fed with artificial manures to produce blooms 

 for show purposes, the soil becoming saturated thereby 

 with chemical matter. This would tend to produce rank, 

 soft shoots, or growths unfit for cuttings. 



The usual plan to adopt, and a much simpler one, is 

 to take the cuttings direct from the plant as it stands. 



It sometimes happens, and is a rather vexing matter, 

 that some of the best varieties or exhibition sorts refuse 

 to throw up cuttings from their base. To guard against 

 occurrences like this, it is as well to leave somewhat 

 longer, say 1 8 inches, the old flowering stems of those 

 varieties addicted to this habit. These plants may be 

 placed in a slightly warmer house (always as near the 

 glass as possible), to encourage them to throw up 

 growths from their base. 



Failing this, cuttings must be taken from the stem. 

 Stem-cuttings should only be resorted to in extreme 

 cases, as in the above instance. They will almost 

 infallibly show a bud during the propagating process, 

 or when root action commences, and this must be 

 immediately pinched out. 



This stem-cutting will thereby upset all calculations 

 for making growths and the timing of buds later. A 

 root-cutting, especially if it can be taken off just below 

 the surface with a few rootlets attached, has more to 

 commend it, as it is often quicker to get away. Others 

 should be taken off and cut cleanly through the stem 

 just below the joint, removing the lower leaf or leaves 

 previous to inserting in the soil. 



About 2j to 3 inches is the average length to trim 

 a cutting. Should there be more growth showing on a 

 plant or plants than is needed for cuttings, carefully 

 remove the weakest at the earliest opportunity : this will 

 help to strengthen the remaining ones. Avoid over- 

 crowding of the stools (as the plants when cut down 

 are termed). 



