i 4 BOOK OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 



loam fibre, to prevent the small soil from working down 

 and choking the drainage. The pots may then be filled 

 with the soil, and made moderately firm to within about 

 J of an inch from the rim. A pinch of loose sand may 

 be scattered on the surface and the cutting inserted in 

 the centre of the pot, with the aid of a blunt stick or 

 dibber slightly larger in diameter than the stem of the 

 cutting. The blunt end of a pencil will answer the 

 purpose well. When inserting the cutting into the hole 

 made by the dibber, care should be taken that the soil 

 is filled up and made firm about the cutting, especially 

 at its base. 



A good plan is to push the dibber down into the soil, 

 about half an inch away and parallel with the cutting. 

 This will effectually close up the soil round about, and 

 a sharp tap with the bottom of the pot upon the bench 

 or table, to further settle the soil, will conclude 

 operations. 



My remarks in the foregoing on the size of pots suitable 

 for cuttings have applied mainly to the large growing 

 forms of Chrysanthemums, both Incurves, Japanese, and 

 large Anemones. 



For the Singles, Decorative, Early Flowering, or 

 Border types, several cuttings may be inserted around 

 the side of a 3 or a gj inch pot. 



This means a considerable saving when space has to be 

 taken into account, and the results are usually satis- 

 factory if they are shifted singly into pots of suitable 

 size, as soon as sufficient root action has taken place. 



To allow the cuttings to remain too long together is 

 a mistake, as the roots become more and more entangled, 

 and separation is a difficult process, many roots being 

 damaged and broken, consequently the plant gets a very 

 poor start, 



