1 6 BOOK OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 



reverse side placed next to the cuttings. If mildew 

 shows badly a little powdered sulphur may be dusted 

 on the affected part. 



It must not always be accepted for truth that if the 

 foliage of a cutting is moist it will not require water at 

 its base. Moreover, the soil may appear moist, when 

 really it is not so. 



Many cuttings are lost in this way, and not in 

 Chrysanthemums alone does this happen. 



When a cutting is rooted, it may be removed from its 

 frame or propagating box and placed on a shelf, in the 

 same house if possible, and close to the glass. This 

 will keep the little plant sturdy and strong. 



Care must be taken, if heavy frosts are prevalent, to 

 mat or cover that portion of the roof under which the 

 plants may be during the night season. Failing this 

 plan it will be wise to remove them to a lower stage or 

 farther from the roof, and replace them in the morning. 



If some cuttings should appear to be very tardy in 

 forming roots, it will perhaps be advisable to put in a 

 few extra ones if the varieties can be obtained. Cuttings 

 will sometimes stand for weeks before making roots. 

 These seldom grow into first-class plants. Usually a 

 cutting will commence top growth and root action at the 

 same period. 



THE FIRST POTTING 



As soon as the plant has made sufficient roots, it may 

 be placed into a larger pot, one of about gj to 4 inches 

 diameter will do. The soil may be mixed a little 

 coarser than for the cutting stage, also less leaf soil and 

 sand ; two parts leaf soil, 3 J to 4 loam and half or little 

 more of sharp sand. 



When potted they may be returned to the house for 

 a time, and be carefully watered and lightly syringed 



