FROM THE COLUMBIA VALLEY TO FORT OWEN. 253 



Saturday, July 23. Raised camp at 3 o clock, and were in march by 7 a. m., and advanced 

 twenty-five miles to Willow creek, a small stream among the willows. The day has been 

 intensely hot; our course was nearly parallel with the Columbia, about seven miles distant. We 

 met many emigrants from Ohio and Illinois bound for California, Oregon, and Washington; they 

 appeared wearied and wayworn, and were comforted by our assurance that the Pacific would 

 soon put a period to their westward land-wandering. They wished us a good speed in our 

 enterprise as only those hardy pioneers can who have walked over the route from Missouri to the 

 Pacific States. 



Sunday, July 24. Thermometer at sunrise 61; barometer 29.774. Marched thirty-five miles 

 over a heath without trees or water to Butter creek. Day intensely hot, and some of our animals 

 gave out. Butter creek is a fine cold stream, winding through a meadow covered with the most 

 luxuriant grass. These beautiful streams are the redeeming features of this otherwise sterile 

 region. I do not know why this is called Butter creek; but when its beautiful and fertile banks 

 become the pasturage of herds of cattle, with an industrious population, its destiny will be 

 accomplished, and the appropriateness of its name justified. 



Monday, July 25. Thermometer 53; barometer 29.544. All hands roused at 3 a. m., but 

 our animals not having been picketed, had strayed, and much time and labor were spent in col 

 lecting them. The loss of animals by stampedes, and straying, is one of the most annoying inci 

 dents of travel in this region. 



In consequence of the great heat we advanced but fifteen miles, and encamped in a pleasant 

 spot on the banks of the Umatilla river. 



Near our camp we were met by a delegation of Cayuse braves, sent by the chief of the Nez 

 Perces, to ascertain our object in passing through their country. They had been told that we 

 were coming to make war upon them, and take away their horses. We assured them that such 

 was not our object; that we had been sent by the great Chief of us all, at Washington, on a 

 mission of peace to all the Indian tribes on both sides of the mountains, and asked them to invite 

 their chief to come to our camp, and smoke the pipe of peace with us. In the evening the old 

 chief came and smoked the pipe of peace with us, promised to be always friendly, and said that 

 he was glad that our &quot;hearts were good.&quot; The Nez Perces are a rich and powerful tribe, and 

 own a great many horses. They cross the mountains yearly to hunt buffalo on the plains of the 

 Missouri. They have a much shorter route to St. Mary s village, but it is too mountainous for us 

 to take. The Bitter Root range of mountains between this and St. Mary s presents too great 

 obstacles to the construction of a railroad. It is, therefore, necessary for us to go to the north 

 ward by the northern shore of Lake Kalispel. At this place we leave the emigrant trail, where 

 it turns off towards the South Pass. 



Tuesday, July 2G. Thermometer at sunrise, 62 ; barometer, 29.684. Started at 2 a. m., on 

 account of the indications of an extremely hot day before us; marched twenty miles, and 

 encamped on the Columbia, within ten miles of Wallah-Wallah. It has been the hottest day of 

 the season; men and animals suffered severely. Twelve miles of our route was over burning 

 sands, destitute of vegetation; the animals sunk deeply into it at every step; its temperature was 

 found to be, in several places, 150; one of the mules gave out, and a poor tired horse tumbled 

 over a precipice ; his pack being of heavier material than his body, followed the law of gravita 

 tion, and came first to the ground, leaving the animal with his feet sticking in the air. He was 

 assisted to regain his proper position, and quietly proceeded on his journey, his looks manifestly 

 indicating his resignation to any fate that might befall him. 



The pioneer who explores this interesting region must be prepared for all sorts of discourage 

 ment. Its vast desert wastes, dense forests, snow-capped mountains, and deep ravines, are 

 obstacles which will call for all his energies and the exercise of his whole stock of philosophy. 

 Here he will find himself surrounded by the grandest tokens of those mighty convulsions of nature 

 which heaved up to the skies the ancient ocean beds. 



