202 VOYAGE IN A CANOE FROM FORT OWEN TO VANCOUVER 



drew about ten inches of \v;iter, had frequently to be lightened. After reaching the St. Mary s 

 formed by the junc. t:o:i of the last-named river and the Hell Gate nver I always had sufficient 

 depth of water. About sixtv miles (by ihe river) below the mouth of the Hell Gate the mount 

 ains approach verv closely to the bed of the stream, rendering its current very swift, and abound 

 ing in rapids. Farther down it is more straight, with large flats on one or both sides; channel 

 deeper and current more sluggish. 



At a point about sixty miles above the Pend d Oreille mission (of St. Ignatius) is the Fend 

 d Orcillc or Kalispelm lake, formed by a dilatation of the river; it is a beautiful sheet of water, 

 about forty-five miles in length: below it the river is sluggish and wide for some twenty-six 

 miles, \\here rapids are again encountered during low water. From a point nine milt s above 

 the lake to these rapids, a distance of about eighty miles, steamboats drawing from twenty to 

 twenty-four inches could readily ascend. In higher water, of course, the distance would be 

 lengthened. There would be but one bad obstacle between the Cabinet (twenty five miles 

 above Lake Pend d Oreille) and a point ten miles below the mission, a distance of one hundred 

 and forty miles. The obstacle alluded to is where the river is divided by rocky islands, with a 

 fall of six and a half feet on each side. At this point a lock might readily be constructed. The 

 Hudson s Bay Company s large freight-boats are in the habit of ascending from the lower end of 

 Pend d Oreille Like to the Horse Plains, a distance of about one hundred and thirty-h ve miles. 

 This involves two portages. On the Columbia, between the mouths of the Spokane and 

 DCS Chutes rivers, a distance of about three hundred and fifty miles, there are but three bad 

 obstacles to navigation for steamboats drawing from twenty to thirty inches. The principal 

 of these are the Priest and Buckland rapids. These might probably be locked, or so modified 

 by art as to render them passable by steamboats or other craft. The mouth of the DCS Chutes 

 river is about eight miles above the present steamboat landing at the Dalles. I have dwelt on 

 these paniculars, knowing how important they wdl prove in relation to questions of railroad 

 construction and the transportation of supplies. From the Horse Plains before spoken oi, the 

 river, so far as I exam ned it, would be excellent for rafting purposes. Timber in this manner could 

 be transported a great distance. Above this, to the St. Mary s village, I cannot give a decided 

 opinion in its favor, but I am inclined to the opinion that rafts might be run at any rate, logs 

 could be readily driven down the current from an immense distance. 



While on the subject of timber, I will briefly allude to its qu inti y and quality. Along the 

 Bitter Root and Hell Gate rivers, arid the mountains in their vicinity, the red pine and the larch, 

 favorite tr&amp;lt; es in sliip- building, are found in great quantities. Farther down these streams we 

 find, in addition, cypress, cedar, hemlock, spruce, and fir, besides several hard-wood trees. The 

 timber country extends from the main range of the Rocky mountains to a point about eighty 

 miles below Fort Colville; from thence to the Dalles there is no timber. At the Dalles it again 

 appears, and trees of many descriptions, arid frequently of enormous size, are found thickly cov 

 ering the valleys and surrounding hills. Good building-stone is found along nearly the whole 

 route. There are a few pieces of excellent land along these rivers; their waters are clear and 

 beautiful, and filled with thousands of fish of the different species of the salmon family. The 

 country above the Dalle- is remarkably healthy, (see medical report.) The St. Mary s valley, 

 so called after the Roman Catholic mission which was here established, is situated between the 

 Rocky and Bitter Root ranges of mountains. The valley at Fort Owen (on the site of the former 

 mission) is about twelve miles wide. It is very fertile, watered by cool, sparkling brooks, arid 

 surrounded by lofty and picturesque mountains. It is inhabited by the Flathead or Selish 

 Indians. How they obtained the name of Flatheads I am unable to say, as the custom of flat 

 tening children s heads is not practised by them. The men are rather below the average size, 

 but they are well-knit, muscular, and good-looking. Although professedly Roman Catholics, 

 they still keep up their aboriginal mode of dress, and many of their old customs. They are 

 remarkably honest, good-natured, and amiable. On account of the depredations and constant 



