VOYAGE IN A CANOE FROM FORT OWEN TO VANCOUVER. 293 



aggressions made upon them by the Blackfeet, and their own migratory habits, it was found inad 

 visable to keep up the mission among them. It was accordingly abandoned three years ago. 

 They still remember the good teachings of the missionaries, as evinced by their honesty and chas 

 tity. Although few in number, they are very brave, and invariably attack the Blackfeet when 

 they meet. The custotn of scalping dead enemies is abandoned by them. Owing to the incur 

 sions of the Blackfeet, who steal their horses, they have but a few good animals left so few, that 

 some are prevented from buffalo hunting in consequence. They raise some wheat and potatoes, 

 but depend principally on the chase fpr subsistence. They have quite a large number of cattle ; 

 these they corral at night to prevent them from being killed by the Blackfeet. The latter Indians 

 do not steal caitle as they do horses, but kill them out of malice. The brothers Owen purchased 

 the mission buildings of the priests, and established a private trading- post. This is called Fort 

 Owen. It is surrounded by the Flathead village, numbering sixteen wooden houses. The soil 

 of the valley is exceedingly fertile. Cattle do not generally require foddering in the winter, the 

 snows are so light. All the numerous streams abound in fine trout. Grouse in the valleys and 

 on the mountains, bear, deer, elk, beaver, and mountain sheep, are abundant. Buffalo were for 

 merly in great numbers in this valley, as attested by the number of skulls seen and by the reports 

 of the inhabitants. For a number of years past none had been seen west of the mountains; but, 

 singular to relate, a buffalo bull was killed at the mouth of the Pend d Oreille river on the day I 

 pissed it. The Indians were in great joy at this, supposing that the buffalo were coming back 

 among them. In addition to the foregoing, I collected considerable information respecting the 

 missions, and the past and present condition of the Indian tribes on my route. Much of this is 

 contained in my journal, from which I take the following extracts. 



Novtmber 6, 1853. Thirty-two miles below Lake Kalispelm. To-day, after paddling ten miles 

 along the river, which is here about three-fourths of a mile wide, we got into swifter water and 

 a quick succession of rapids. The nineteenth mile brought us to our last portage this side of the 

 mission of St. Ignatius, (R. C.) Here an island blocks up and dams the river, which relieves 

 itself on both sides of the island by a cascade of about six and a half feet perpendicular fall. 

 In the middle of the island is a cleft, now dry, which becomes a third channel in high water. 

 Below the island a bay makes in to within thirty feet of the water on its upper side. Over this 

 thirty feet of rock we made a portage of our stuff, and dragged our boat across. I learn that 

 about thirty-five miles to the north there is a beautiful sheet of water called Lake Rootham. It 

 is about the same size as Lake Kalispelm, and, like it, beautifully clear, and surrounded by lofty 

 mountains, but surpasses the latter in beauty by the great number of small islands it contains. 

 The outlet of the lake enters Clark river about five miles above the fall. From Lake Rootham 

 a mountain ridge runs south -southwest to the Spokane country, a distance of about seventy miles. 

 The river and ridge intersect at the fall, the island between being wrought into its present shape 

 by the continual action of the water. According to the accounts of Indians and hunters, with 

 the single exception of the break in its continuity, produced by the river at this point, the summit 

 presents an almost dead level, and would offer many advantages in this respect for a trail or a 

 wagon road. This range is much lower than the others in its neighborhood, and is free from 

 snow in the summer. The occurrence of a natural level for a distance of seventy miles may, in 

 future, be turned to great advantage. The fall on Clark river, in all probability, affords one of 

 the best natural sites for manufacturing and milling purposes that can be found anywhere. The 

 island not only forms a mill- site of incalculable water-power, but it affords an unyielding and 

 safe foundation, secure from damage during the highest freshet. In the neighborhood of the fall 

 there is but little land suitable for cultivation. The soil on the craggy hill-sides is thin, and at 

 present covered with a dense growth of heavy timber. After making the portages, we proceeded 

 two and a half miles down the river and encamped for the night. 



November 7. Made an early start. Paddled nine hours. At dusk we encamped with some 

 Indians, on the left bank of the river, about half a mile above the outlet of Lake Debeoy. There 



