FROM THE FLATIIEAD CAMP TO ST. MARY S VALLEY. 311 



the left bank of the head branch of the Muscle Shell, on which we encamped, for about two 

 miles, where, leaving it to our right, our course lay to the west over a prairie road at the base of 

 the slope of the range of mountains to our left. After passing over this well-grassed prairie 

 road, which formed the divide of the valley, we fell upon the headwaters of a stream flowing 

 towards the west and emptying into the Missouri, which, from its general character, valley, bed, 

 and direction, we took to be the Smith s river of Lewis and Clark; it is called by the Indians 



. It rises in the western slope of the mountains, receiving tributaries, small but rapid, 



from many points in the mountains on the north and south. The hills here, and along our whole 

 journey, continued to. be covered with the cedar, bush-willow, and spruce-pine, which grows 

 small, but exceedingly abundant. To-day hills and mountains assumed a more rugged appear 

 ance than we had noticed on any day previous; high rocky bluffs at times outcropping from the 

 hills, of a dark black or brown color, commingled with a light cream-colored rock apparently of 

 a hard texture. The hills on each side of the valley were from five to six hundred feet high. The 

 brooks, streams, and rivulets passed and crossed to-day were very numerous. The grass along 

 our whole route was exceedingly fine and luxuriant in the valley; along the slopes of the mount 

 ains, however, which were covered with rocks and pebbles, the grass was very spare and dry, 

 contrasting well with the beautiful green meadows of the valley below. Game to-day was very 

 scarce, only one elk and four antelope being seen during the day: the latter being exceedingly 

 shy, precluded all possibility of approach; the former we succeeded in killing, but he proved 

 unfortunately to be a six-year old buck, poor and good for nothing, which we sorely regretted, 

 as we were now without meat. We nooned to-day on Smith s river, where we found good water, 

 grass, and wood; the latter, however, was not abundant, the stream here having a width of 

 forty feet. We continued down the valley of this river during the remainder of the day, which 

 was from a mile to a mile and a half wide, and perfectly level. It is probably one of the prettiest 

 valleys to be found in the mountains. For miles you see before you a level prairie bottom, 

 bounded on each side by the gently sloping hills of the Belt mountains, which are covered with 

 a thick and even growth of the pine, and through the middle of this prairie the Smith s river, 

 with its banks bordered by the willow, birch, and cotton-wood, flows. The water of this stream 

 is clear and cool, its bed pebbly, and current rapid. The weather to-day has been very warm, 

 rendering a coat uncomfortable, contrasting greatly and agreeably with the weather of the two 

 days previous. Some of the higher peaks of the mountains on the south side of the valley were 

 covered with snow, while none was to be seen on the mountains towards the north. After a long 

 day s march we camped on the left bank of Smith s river, where we found good wood, grass, and 

 water. We had a luxury to-night in a string of mountain trout, brought into camp by one of 

 our Flathead friends; these trout, which form a very excellent dish, were twelve inches long, of 

 slightly yellow tinged color, and spotted on the upper half, and look not unlike the common 

 mackerel of the East. Our Indians displayed on this occasion a trait worthy of notice. They 

 were without meat, or anything to eat. We were without meat, but had a little flour left from 

 our small stock of provisions. These being the first fish caught by any of the party, they insisted 

 on our taking them, which we refused ; but still insisting, we were compelled to accept them. 

 This is certainly an example of boundless generosity. I cannot say too much in favor of these 

 noble men who were with us; they were pious, aged, firm, upright, and reliable men; in addi 

 tion thereto, they entertained a religious belief which they never violated. They partook not of a 

 meal without asking a blessing of God; they never rose in the morning or retired at night without 

 offering a prayer to God. They all knew the country well, and made excellent guides and good 

 hunters; and when they could not find fresh meat they accepted of the remnants from our scanty 

 table with the greatest humility and contentedness, contrasting well with our Blackfeet friends, 

 who had just left us, who made free with anything belonging to us, and who looked upon our 

 table as their own. These Flatheads have always been, as an Indian tribe, held in the highest 

 estimation, and this I can fully confirm from actual observation. When one or two went out in 



