FROM BITTER ROOT VALLEY TO FORT HALL. 325 



valley, passing over the mountain about twelve miles north of the divide, where we crossed it. 

 In this prairie bottom we found encamped several lodges of the Nez Perces Indians, wilh large 

 bands of horses. We crossed the fork of the Bitter Root running through this prairie, through 

 which flow two other head branches of the Bitter Root river, the extreme source being about 

 four miles to the east, coming from a range of mountains forming the dividing ridge of the Mis 

 souri and Columbia waters. We found the grass up the valley, and especially in this prairie 

 bottom, most excellent. Such prairies as the one met to-day, and to be met with in crossing the 

 mountains in every direction, are called &quot;Holes.&quot; In fact, the Rocky mountains in ihis region 

 are made up of ridges of mountains and patches of prairies, varying from ten to thirty miles in 

 length, and as many in width. In Ross s Hole the grass we found to be about six inches long and 

 quite green. The day has been very mild arid pleasant, the genial rays of the sun making every 

 thing bright and summer-like; the thermometer at 2 p. m. standing 47, at 9 p. m. 30; and 

 during the afternoon we were visited by a slight shower of rain. We made during the day 

 twenty-five miles, and camped on the extreme south branch of the Bitter Root river, where we 

 found good grass, wood, and water. Our camp being only a few yards distant from about twelve 

 or fifteen lodges of the Nez Perces, they were anxious and curious to know our business through 

 this portion of the mountains. We were visited during the night by numbers of them, who sat 

 up talking around our camp-fires till near midnight. They told us they were just returning, with 

 their families, from the buffalo hunt; that they had with them on the hunt about eighty lodges, 

 and that they were on their way to the main valley of the Bitter Root river, where they intended 

 passing the winter. They were very glad to see us, and leaving the next morning they all assem 

 bled to bid us God- speed. The Ross s Hole referred to is where Messrs. Lewis and Clark first 

 met the Flatheads on their expedition to the Pacific in 1804. There is a chief among the Flat- 

 heads by the name of Moise, who told me that he was present when Lewis and Clark visited 

 their camp in Ross s Hole, and that they took what is known here as the Southern Nez Perces 

 trail (the same that Mr. Tinkham followed to Wallah-Wallah) on their way to the Pacific, fol 

 lowing the Bitter Root river to its forks. 



December 4, 1853. Commences pleasant, the thermometer at sunrise standing at 38 Fahren 

 heit. We were delayed till nearly eleven o clock, our animals having strayed some miles from 

 camp. By invitation, the chief of the Nez Perces visited our camp, and took breakfast with us. 

 Having, after a long search, found our animals, we commenced our day s march by ascending a 

 very high and steep mountain, known as the Big Hole mountain. The western slope of this 

 mountain we found perfectly clear of snow, affording a very excellent road, though up a very 

 steep ascent. On arriving near its summit we found the snow twelve inches deep; the ther 

 mometer, which at its base stood 47, on its summit stood 36; we were one hour and a 

 quarter in ascending this mountain. Very fortunately, the Nez Perces, who had just crossed the 

 mountain wilh several hundred horses, had beaten the road well for us, affording an excellent 

 path till we reached the Big Hole prairie. This mountain is about six thousand feet high, and 

 its summit snow-capped; wagons coming from Fort Hall cross it. The road is very good for 

 loaded wagons in descending the western slope, but in ascending I am of the opinion that it is 

 impracticable. There is no difficulty for empty wagons, however, in ascending it. The descent 

 towards the Missouri side is very gradual so much so, that were it not for the direction taken 

 by the water, you would think you were&quot; passing over almost a level prairie valley. This 

 mountain is covered with the white pine, growing to a height of from fifty to seventy feet. We 

 found the mountain to be of a granite formation, a specimen of which was collected from some 

 broken fragments that lay along the slopes of the mountain. This is the same formation as occurs 

 throughout the Bitter Root valley, with the exception that the mica is not found in such large 

 quantities. We passed several Nez Perces lodges in crossing the mountain, wilh many animals 

 loaded with meat and furs. This has been a great hunting season with all the Indians, both east 

 arid west of the mountain. Hundreds of thousands of buffalo have been slain, and small game 



