346 FROM FORT II ALL TO HEAD OF HELL GATE RIVER. 



rendered travelling exceedingly dangerous for both men and animals. Below us was a preci 

 pice of one hundred feet; here one of the animals missed his footing and rolled to the bottom. 

 We were enabled to make but eight miles march to-day, camping on the right bank of the Hell 

 Gate river, where we found excellent grass for our animals. We were compelled to build a 

 large fire to dry our baggage wet during the crossings. Our chapter of misfortunes now seemed 

 to have commenced ; and although we estimated that we were but sixty miles from our main 

 camp on the Bitter Root river, we could form no idea when we should arrive there. It continued 

 snowing the whole night. 



January 8, 1854. Commences mild, and comparatively pleasant. The ice, however, made 

 an inch thick during the night. We resumed our march at 9 a. m., crossing the Hell Gate river 

 within a few yards of our camp, where we experienced much trouble in crossing our animals. 

 The channel was open, with water two and a half feet deep ; current very rapid. The margin, 

 however, on each side for several feet was blocked with ice. Our trail, to-day, lay principally 

 through a beautiful pine forest. Travelling a distance of twelve miles, we encamped on the right 

 bank of the Hell Gate river, finding scanty fare for our animals, the snow being from three to 

 six inches deep. The weather has been mild to-day till 7 p. m., when it commenced raining, 

 which continued throughout the night. 



January 9, 1S54. Commences mild and rainy, which continued till 8 a. m., partially melting 

 the snow, and rendering our travelling much better than it had been for several days past. I 

 despatched Gabriel, the guide, this morning for our main camp on the Bitter Root river, to have 

 certain preparations made on our arrival. We resumed our march at 9.30 a. m., and at the dis 

 tance of a mile struck the Big Blackfoot, which we crossed with some difficulty. We made the 

 crossing of the main stream of the Hell Gate river, below the mouth of the Big Blackfoot, without 

 difficulty ; and also the crossing of the Bitter Root river, where we found the ice about three 

 inches thick. Travelling a distance of twenty-two miles, we encamped upon the left bank of the 

 Bitter Root river, where our animals were amply repaid for their scanty fare of the last few 

 nights by an abundance of rich grass. The weather, to-day, has been exceedingly warm and 

 pleasant, though towards sunset it became cold, with a slight fall of snow in the valley, while 

 heavy snow-clouds covered the tops of the mountains on each side of the valley. We thus found 

 ourselves once more in the Bitter Root valley, and there was no one who regretted it. 



January 10, 1854. Commences mild and pleasant. We resumed our march at 8 a. m. up the 

 Bitter Root valley, crossing the Bitter Root river with an open channel, and arrived at Fort 

 Owen at 2 p. m., where we were kindly received by the proprietors, the Messrs. Owen. Spend 

 ing the night under their hospitable roof, we reached our main camp on the next day ; finding 

 here that our winter quarters had been completed, corral for animals, and everything built, and 

 the men comfortably in cantonment. Here was camped the whole Flathead tribe of Indians, 

 who w r ere awaiting our arrival. Thus we found ourselves at the main camp after an absence of 

 forty-five days, during which time we had crossed the mountains four times, completely turning 

 the eastern portion of the Bitter Root range by a line of seven hundred miles, experiencing a 

 complete change of climate, and crossing two sections of country different in soil, formation, natural 

 features, capability, and general character. Crossing also, in all their ramifications, the head 

 waters of the two great rivers, Missouri and Columbia, we had now a fine opportunity to com 

 pare the climate and character of the Bitter Root valley with that of the Hell Gate, and others 

 in its vicinity. In the former snow was found from four to six inches deep, while in the latter 

 the ground was perfectly free from snow. It seemed as if we had entered an entirely different 

 region and different climate ; the Bitter Root valley thus proving that it well merits the name 

 of the valley of perennial spring. The fact of the exceedingly mild winters in the valley has been 

 noticed and remarked by every one who has ever been in it during the winter season; thus 

 affording an excellent rendezvous and recruiting station for the Indians in its vicinity, and to 

 those sojourning in it, as well as all others who might be overtaken by the cold or snow of the 



