FROM FORT BENTON TO CANTONMENT STEVENS. 351 



are two gaps where this stream flows, by following which you reach the mountain from Fort 

 Benton without any difficulty or obstacle save the timber, which, being small and scattering, 

 would be cleared out in two days by six men. Leaving the Small Prickly Pear creek to my 

 north, and at a mile distant, the country thence to the mountains is a rolling prairie. On the 

 seventh night from Fort Benton I encamped at the foot of the mountains on the east, forming the 

 dividing ridge of the Missouri and Columbia waters. The day following I crossed the mountain 

 with no difficulty whatever; found no snow upon its summit, and the mountain itself nothing more 

 than a low prairie ridge. The ascent and descent are so exceedingly gradual, that not only was it 

 not necessary to lock the wheels of the wagon in descending, but it was driven with the animals 

 trotting. One could scarcely have believed that there existed such a beautiful and easy pass 

 in the mountains. For a railroad it would involve a cut of one hundred feet deep, and half a 

 mile long, which was the measured distance from base to base. From the mountains I followed 

 down the northern branch of the Little Blackfoot, thence by the Hell Gate river to the Bitter Root 

 valley, where I arrived on the 27th of March, and at Fort Owen on the 30th, making the travelling 

 time, with my wagon, twelve days from Fort Benton to Fort Owen. 



I ran an odometer line over the whole route, and found it to be only forty-four miles longer 

 than that followed by the train under Lieutenant Donelson. I was favored with much beautiful 

 weather during the whole time, finding no snow save at the head of the Little Blackfoot, and on 

 the summit (ten inches) when going; no snow east of the mountains; and I found no snow 

 whatever on my whole return route. I was enabled, also, on this tour, to fix accurately many 

 points of the streams crossed by the main party to the mountains, having passed much nearer 

 the Missouri than Lieutenant Donelson ; especially the Dearborn river and the Crown Butte 

 creek, which latter does not empty into the Missouri, but which with a smaller stream forms a 

 lake, the outlet of which sinks into the ground five miles to the north of the Missouri. I was 

 enabled to make the trip in the short time mentioned, having with me animals in fine condition 

 and in good working order. Accompanying this you will find sketches of the principal features 

 of the route, among which is a panorama sketch of the main chain of the Rocky mountains 

 from the Marias Pass to the pass crossed by my party. Also, as viewed from the east, a sketch 

 of my camp at the Bear s Teeth, on the Missouri. This is a prominent and well known land 

 mark in the bed of bluffs along the Missouri; and the sketch is characteristic of the country, as 

 also of the Missouri, as it flows through the bluffs. Also, a sketch of the Missouri River 

 mountains, from the Little Blackfoot Pass. The point where the Missouri leaves the bluffs 

 referred to, is the &quot; Gate of the Mountains,&quot; so called by Messrs. Lewis and Clark in 1804. The 

 route I passed over on rny return, and examined, I can therefore report as perfectly practicable 

 for a railroad route, and for a wagon road forms an easy and beautiful link in the chain extended 

 and examined by you from the Mississippi river to Fort Benton, on the Missouri. The route is 

 well wooded and watered, and there is an abundance of excellent grass the whole distance, the 

 quality and quantity of which were shown by the fine condition of my animals on their return. 

 I lost no animals on the trip, a distance of nearly six hundred miles, and in a season heretofore 

 deemed impracticable for travelling in the Rocky mountains. From Fort Benton to the mount 

 ains, the route lying over a rolling prairie country, would for a railroad involve cuts not deeper 

 at any point than one hundred feet. From the mountains to the Bitter Root valley, you have a 

 gently sloping valley the whole distance. I do not here make mention of the character of either 

 the Little Blackfoot or Hell Gate rivers, having already given you a full and detailed description 

 of each of these streams, their valleys, capabilities, &c., in my report of January 21, 1854. 

 There is still another pass between this last described and the one followed by Lieutenant 

 Donelson, which I intend to examine. The existence, therefore, of this pass in the mountains, 

 with beautiful approaches on either side, must necessarily throw additional light upon the char 

 acter of this region ; and being travelled at the period we crossed the mountains, and finding no 

 snow whatever, will show to many not otherwise properly informed, that this region is not the 



