METEOROLOGY OP ROUTE FROM FORT BENTON TO WALLAH-WALLAH. 397 



use them. I therefore, on the 2d day of January, left Fort Benton with my party of four men 

 and trains, with an addition of two men with pack-mules ; the latter I intended to use until enough 

 snow should fall to enable me to use my trains. 



On the evening of the 2d the snow commenced falling, and it continued stormy for some days, 

 during which time about six inches of snow fell. On the morning of the 7th the weather had 

 assumed a more settled appearance, and the snow seemed likely to remain ; I therefore sent back 

 my pack-mules and continued on with my dogs. I had reason soon to repent the step, however ; 

 for, by the morning of the 9th, all our snow had been carried away by the combined influence 

 of the sun and the southwest wind. I may as well state, in this connexion, that the southwest 

 wind is the prevailing wind in the winter season in this section of the country ; and, if it blows 

 for several days in succession, it invariably brings with it mild weather, and cuts down the snow, 

 and frequently drives the ice from the river. On the 9th and 10th we worked along slowly over 

 the bare ground to near the base of the main chain of mountains ; but on the morning of the llth, 

 as we were approaching the dividing ridge, we struck the region of snow and found a cooler 

 atmosphere. On the 12th we passed the dividing ridge, upon which the snow lay to the depth of 

 one foot, and in no place where undisturbed did it exceed this. On the 13th we continued down 

 the Blackfoot fork ; the weather now had become quite severe and stormy, and the general 

 direction of the wind (northeast) quite the contrary of what it had been east of the divide. As 

 to the snow, its depth remained about the same from the divide to our debouch into the lower 

 end of the Hell Gate defile, never exceeding one foot, and drifting but very little. 



On the 21st we reached the Bitter Root valley and camped on the Bitter Root river. As we 

 approached the valley there was a sensible diminution of snow, and in the valley itself it did not 

 exceed five inches in depth, and a portion of the valley was entirely bare. The next day, the 

 22d, we arrived at the trading-post of Mr. Owen, who, with great kindness, furnished us with 

 every comfort required. During my stay in this fine valley, preparatory to the continuation of 

 my journey, I could but notice the fine cattle belonging to Mr. Owen and the Indians, (Flatheads,) 

 and never have I seen cattle in better condition anywhere, or in any season, than these were, 

 though entirely unsheltered and uncared for. The cows and young cattle were mostly as fat as 

 stall-fed beeves ; and calves a week old and younger were running at large on the range. I was 

 informed by Mr. Owen that he never lost his calves from the inclemency of the weather, though 

 he never housed his stock or fed them. The mildness of this valley may be regarded as remark 

 able, considering its latitude. As soon as the Flatheads heard of my arrival from the country of 

 the Blackfeet, the principal chiefs convened and called on me, anxious to hear the news from 

 the other side of the mountains. They had been informed by you previously of the promises of 

 the Blackfeet to desist from war ; but they had been so oppressed and impoverished by them for 

 many years, that they heard the news with distrust, and their fears had been realized, weeks 

 before I arrived there, by another descent of the Blackfeet upon them, by which they lost several 

 horses. They were now anxious to learn if any war parties were out, and what was their des 

 tination. I informed them that there were six hundred young men on war parties on the Crows, 

 but none that I knew of looking towards their country. In fact, the Flatheads generally have a 

 resting spell during the winter, as in this season war parties cannot take back the horses they 

 steal ; and as that is the great object of their expeditions, they wait till spring. 



At this point I found it would be impracticable to continue farther with dogs, as about three- 

 fourths of the distance between this and Wallah- Wallah was entirely destitute of snow. I there 

 fore prepared to pursue my journey with pack-mules and Indian ponies. These I procured from 

 Lieutenant Mullan, who held in charge a large number of animals belonging to the expedition, 

 which had been unable to proceed on with the main party in the fall, owing to their reduced 

 condition, but had so far recovered at this time as to be able, in our opinion, to take the trip. 

 Accordingly, on the 29th I sent back to Fort Benton two of my men who had engaged to come 

 only this far, with one train and four dogs; the remaining trains and dogs I abandoned, and, 



