494 MISSOURI RIVER FROM GREAT FALLS TO MOUTH OF MILK RIVER. 



now becoming mostly clay and sand, and the few islands passed to-day have been pointed off by 

 sand-bars at both ends, Missouri fashion. The bluffs are lower and more receding than yester 

 day, particularly on the north side. 



About 2 o clock we came unexpectedly upon a band of elk, swimming the river, and suc 

 ceeded in killing a fine doe, which came very opportunely, as our supply of big-horn was entirely 

 exhausted. About 5 o clock we camped on the head of a large wooded island, under the banks 

 of which there were a great number of beaver lodges. About sunset two buffalo came down 

 from the main land and swam the river, just below camp. Intent upon getting a hump rib, I 

 started in pursuit, and by creeping along under cover of a deep fringe of willows, approached 

 within ten paces of the hindmost one, and, taking deliberate aim about two feet below the hump, 

 which was the only part to be seen above the willows, fired. The old bull (as it turned out to 

 be) elevated his short tail straight in the air, and, with one grunt, put off at full speed into the 

 woods ; and though I trailed him, by the blood, for more than three-quarters of a mile, I lost him 

 at last ; probably in some thicket, where he deposited himself for the benefit of the wolves. A 

 sick or wounded animal stands but a little chance of recovery, for the wolves follow and harass 

 him till, through exhaustion, he lies down perfectly helpless, when they proceed to make a meal 

 of him before the life is out of his body. Distance travelled to-day, 30 miles. 



October 1. This morning was clear and frosty again, and every sound was echoed and re 

 echoed with long vibrations as we floated down the stream. 



The river to-day is in all respects very similar to what it was yesterday, but gradually grow 

 ing a little wider. The banks on both sides are somewhat broken, and in places quite high. 

 The general course of the river changed about 9 o clock from nearly southeast to nearly due 

 south as far as the mouth of the Muscle Shell, a very considerable stream emptying in from the 

 south, which was passed about noon. I did not measure its width, but judged it to be consider 

 ably less than one hundred yards. It is very low now, bat earlier in the season it probably throws 

 in a large body of water. Its bed is very similar to that of the Missouri at its junction ; and, like 

 it, it is skirted with low grounds well covered with cotton-wood. 



A short distance above the mouth of the Muscle Shell we stopped to lunch, and afterwards 

 picked up several interesting specimens of fossil remains of shell-fish of different forms and sizes, 

 and procured others still more perfect, by breaking open loose fragments of limestone that had 

 fallen down from the banks. 



About 2 o clock, coming to a portion of the river comparatively straight, we saw a herd of 

 buffalo on the bank about two miles below, preparing to cross. They did not all descend to the 

 water s edge at once, but one or two pioneers and leaders of the band kept in advance, apparently 

 to try the bottom lest it should prove miry, and the whole herd get swamped. The bottom 

 proving satisfactory, the leaders plunged in, followed by the whole band, who landed safe on the 

 other side. One would think they found it very hard work, for in swimming they grunt so as to 

 be heard distinctly a mile. Below this they have learned by experience to be very cautious in 

 selecting a crossing-place, for the flats near the water s edge are sometimes nothing but quick 

 sand, or ..tenacious clay, very difficult to work through. At one point, some distance below the 

 rnouth of Milk river, I saw five wolves hopelessly mired near a dead buffalo, who had met with 

 the same fate. We went ashore, and found that the clay was so much dried up as to admit of our 

 approaching their place of incarceration, when, by dint of prying with sticks and pulling at their 

 tails, we succeeded in releasing them, so much exhausted as to be scarcely able to crawl. They 

 must have lain there a week. 



But to return to the buffalo : one of the men killed one, a fat cow, and we selected the finest 

 parts and went on our way. 



Camped about 3 o clock. At about 5 p. m. one of the men, who had been out hunting, came 

 in and said he had seen a &quot; war party&quot; of about sixty Blackfeet going into camp, just around the 

 bend above us. Such neighbors are by no means pleasant ; and not having any particular desire 



