LETTER OP A. W. TINKHAM. 625 



FORT WALLAH- WALLAH, 



January 2, 1854. 



DEAR SIR : Your express reached me very opportunely. I arrived here Friday evening, De 

 cember 30, and Mclntosh came in the next day. Acting under instructions delivered in St. Ma 

 ry s valley, I had already made my preparations, and two days later I should probably have been 

 again moving westward. I should, however, as formerly directed, have taken the route pursued 

 by the emigrants, and crossed the Cascade range by the Nahchess Pass. 



A brief note about my movements since leaving you in St. Mary s valley. Winding along the 

 hills edging upon the western border of Flathead lake, and tracing iirst the main stream of Clark s 

 fork, and then its northeastern fork till this stream ran out, we attained the summit of Marias Pass 

 on the 20th of October, without snow, but with the snow flying in the air as we crossed. Camp 

 ing in the valley, immediately under the mountains, on the eastern side, that night it commenced 

 snowing, and from that time until we made our third passage of the Rocky mountains the weather 

 was generally cold and snowy. 



The pass I find to be impracticable as a wagon route, and available for a railroad only with 

 high grades, for about twenty-five miles, and with a tunnel of at least two miles in length, the 

 mountain work being also generally rock cutting. The height of the pass is about 7,500 feet. 

 The long approach to the summit led me to hope for a better result. Descending on the eastern 

 slopes the next day after the passage, we attained the prairies soon after noon, while our time 

 from Flathead lake to the summit was about a week. On the plains the temperature was quite 

 low during the week that we were getting to Fort Benton, moderating as we approached the 

 Missouri, but for the most of the lime rating in the morning as low as 3 to 5 above zero 

 Fahrenheit. 



Two mules were left on the plains before we could get to the fort. At the fort there was no 

 snow. We arrived there on the 2Sth day of October, having had a longer trip than was antici 

 pated, with animals a good deal tired, and out of provisions. The Piegan boy, acting as guide 

 to Lander, was left at the fort. I found Mr. Doty almost destitute of serviceable animals, having 

 just despatched the best of his stock to Lieutenant Grover. Some dozen or thirteen animals, 

 including three government animals, had also just been stolen by the Indians, so that from Mr. 

 Doty I was unable to obtain more than five animals which proved of use to me. Of the stolen 

 animals I learned more subsequently, which will be referred to in my report. 



The last day of October we crossed the Missouri just below the fort, and the day being well 

 spent, encamped soon after on a small tributary, just hid from the main river by the high banks 

 rising on either side of the river in that vicinity. That night it commenced snowing again, and 

 so continued during a great portion of the time, until we were on the western side of the mount 

 ains. The passage of the mountains was made by the trail used by the Flatheads in going to 

 and from the buffalo ground, lies between Cadotte s Pass and the pass traversed by Lieutenant 

 Mullan, and descends into the plains by Hell Gate fork, intersecting Lieutenant Mullan s route 

 some two or three days after passing the summit. This is the trail almost always used by the 

 Flatheads; and knowing no such stream as Jefferson s fork, our guide supposed, and probably 

 will always suppose, that, as directed by you, he carried us through the great Flathead trail at 

 the head of Jefferson s fork, this being the principal trail used in the buffalo hunt. 



Did I care to undeceive him, it would have been too late when I became convinced that what 

 I had already supposed was true. I, however, gave no preference to the examination of the pass 

 on the head of Jefferson s fork, especially as my instructions left me free to the action of my 

 judgment, and the cold and snow were urging us forward to as speedy transit of the mountains as 

 was possible. November the 10th we made our third passage of the mountains, crossing in com 

 pany with a large party of Pend d Oreilles, and from this time forward our usually lonely march 

 was enlivened constantly with the presence of Indians Pend d Oreilles, Flatheads, and a few 

 Nez Perces moving forward in common with us, and with their multitude of animals always in 

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