232 SOME SPECIFIC ADVICE 



care. It may be found that, after a few years of root- 

 pruning, the circumferential mass of fibers will have be- 

 come too much crowded with small roots ; in such cases, 

 thin out some of the roots, shortening them at nine inches 

 or one foot from the stem. This will cause them to give 

 out fibers, so that the entire circle of three feet or more 

 around the tree will be full of fibrous roots near the surface, 

 waiting with open mouths for the nourishment annually 

 given to them by surface dressings and liquid manure. 



"Thus far for the gardener who does not mind extra 

 trouble, who, in short, feels real pleasure in every opera- 

 tion that tends to make his trees perfect in fruitfulness and 

 symmetry. But it is not every amateur gardener that can 

 do this, nor is it always required in the south of England, 

 except for small gardens and in rich, moist soils, in which 

 pear trees are inclined to grow too vigorously. But with 

 our too often cool, moist summers in the northern counties, 

 annual root-pruning is quite necessary to make the trees 

 produce well-ripened wood. In other cases, as I have be- 

 fore observed, shortening the shoots in summer, taking care 

 to produce a handsome pyramidal form, and if they are 

 inclined to grow vigorously, biennial root-pruning, will be 

 quite sufficient." 



ROOT -PRUNING WHEN TRANSPLANTING. Root- 



pruning results from the removal of plants. That 

 is, it is practically impossible to dig up plants of 

 any size as shrubs or trees without cutting some 

 of the roots. The severed roots, when as large 

 as a lead pencil, should be cut back to live, un- 

 injured wood, and the wound should be clean-cut. 

 This is to ensure rapid healing. How short the 

 roots shall be cut is a problem to be settled for 

 each case, in the same way as the similar problem 



