DWARF PEARS 



275 



tree, as above described, its lower branches about one foot 

 from the ground, its upper branches being the strongest and 

 most upright, and those below less vigorous and more hori- 

 zontal. I speak of this more 

 particularly for the reason 

 that all the cuts which I have 

 noticed in works on pomology, 

 and in agricultural papers 

 represent a two-year-old tree, 

 with branches much the long- 

 est and strongest at the bot- 

 tom and diminishing in vigor 

 towards the top, except, per- 

 haps, the center top branch ; 

 while all experience illustrates 

 the principle that the sap flows 

 most freely and readily to the 

 upper branches, giving them 

 vigor, strength and upright- 

 ness, to the diminution of the 

 same characteristics in those 



below. The dotted lines indicate where the branches 

 should be cut back at the time of planting. 



"In cutting a tree, with the branches formed as above 

 described, let the leader be cut down within four or six 

 inches of the place where the one-year-old tree was cut off, 

 and just above a good bud on the side of the tree over the 

 previous year's cut, thus keeping the leader in a perpen- 

 dicular position over the original trunk or bottom of the tree. 



"If the side branches aro too horizontal, upper buds are 

 left for their extension ; if too upright, lower buds are left. 

 Side direction may be given, if desirable, to fill wide spaces, 

 in the same way. Cut the other branches at such a distance 

 from the trunk that the ends of them will form a pyra- 

 mid, the base of which should not be over twelve to sixteen 

 inches in diameter, and in smallish trees much less; thus 



197. 



Treatment of 



two-year-old 



dwarf pear 



tree. 



198. 



Treatment 

 for a three- 

 year-old 

 tree. 



