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Growing- Chpysanthemums. 



1094. Sir,— Would you please give me 

 some hiats for growing chrysanthemums. 



If our correspondent will turn up our 

 report for 1897 he will find an excellent 

 article by Prof. Hutt, on this subject. 

 The following brief hints are given by a 

 Canadian florist : — 



During the past decade, the chrysan- 

 themum has been and still is the most 

 popular of all fall blooming plants, and 

 is properly called " Queen of Autumn." 

 Coming into bloom as soon as the 

 dahlia is over, its flowers last throughout 

 November and early December, if the 

 plant is properly protected from freezing. 

 The culture is very simple, as they grow 

 freely in any rich, well-drained soil 

 whether of a clayey or sandy nature 

 Young plants should be secured in May 

 or June and planted if possible, on the 

 east or south side of a fence or build- 

 ing, that they may easily be protected 

 from cold, freezing winds in autumn. 

 The plants should be cut back early in 

 July, and again each two or three weeks 

 afterward, until early in August, when 

 the shoots should be allowed to grow. 

 By this time each plant should present 

 a well branched and stocky appearance. 

 The plants must of course, receive 

 thorough cultivation throughout the 

 summer, and the surface of the ground 

 never allowed to get hard or baked. 



If these few directions are observed, a 

 magnificent display of chrysanthemums 

 will be had in the fall after all other 

 flowers have ceased blooming. 



The chrysanthemum is one of the 

 finest fall blooming plants for the house. 

 Young plants secured in May or June 

 should be lifted into larger pots from 

 time to time, until five to seven inch 



pots are reached, according as the grower 

 desires. If cut back, as above instruct- 

 ed, large stocky plants can be had in 

 the house in full bloom throughout the 

 autumn months. Few realize that 

 amateurs can grow large blooms of 

 exhibition quality ; yet this can be done 

 by growing plants to a single stem and 

 removing all but the terminal bud. In 

 growing chrysanthemums in pots, they 

 can be placed in frames or among other 

 flowers, but the most satisfactory way is 

 to plunge the pots to the rim in the soil, 

 thus causing less danger of drying out, 

 and requiring much less attention. 

 They must, of course, be watered dur- 

 ing dry times, and the plants should be 

 turned immediaiely before watering, at 

 least once in two weeks, to prevent 

 rooting through the pots under the soil. 



The principal enemy to chrysanthe- 

 mum culture is the black fly, which is 

 easily kept in check by frequent applica- 

 tions of tobacco dust or spraying with a 

 solution made by boiling tobacco stems 

 in water. This solution should be 

 about the color of strong tea. 



Even the tender varieties of chrysan- 

 themums can be kept over with good 

 results, by covering the plants outside 

 with pine branches (or other materia 

 that will not harbor mice) to the depth 

 of one foot to prevent frequent freezing 

 and thawing. Chrysanthemum plants 

 grown in pots can be placed in the 

 cellar after they are through bloomingl 

 and by not watering, except when abso- 

 lutely necessary to prevent shriveling, 

 will be in excellent condition for plant- 

 ing the following spring. 



Apples for Home Use and Market. 



1095. Sir, — I see in the Mav number 

 two questions asked and answered, but along 



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