1879 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTUKE. 



267 



time it blossoms here, for I thought about 

 its being the 27th of May, when sliding 

 down out of that tree. A few days ago, I 

 received some bees from G. W. Gates, of 

 Bartlett, Tenn. The combs were filled and 

 bulged out with a dark honey, such as I 

 have described, and the bees had built fins 

 of snow white comb on the cover of their 

 shipping box. From this, I infer the honey 

 must be yielded in great abundance in those 

 localities. I have seen it stated, that the 

 large dowers sometimes yield a spoonful of 

 honey each. As the tree is often used for 

 ornament, I make the following extract from 

 Fuller's Forest Tree Cult-wrist. 



LIRIODENDRON TUXIPIFERA (Tulip-trCC WMteWOOClJ. 



Leaves smooth, on slender petioles, partially 

 three-lobed, the middle one appearing- as though 

 cut off ; flowers about two inches broad, bell-shaped, 

 greenish yellow, marked with orange; seeds winged, 

 in a large cone-shape cluster, which falls apart in 

 autumn. The figure shows a single seed 

 as it appears when separated from the 

 mass. It blooms in May and June, and 

 the seeds ripen in late summer or early 

 autumn, and should be sown as soon as 

 ripe in good, moderately dry soil. They 

 may remain in the seed bed two years, 

 if desirable, but should receive a slight 

 protection the first winter; tree of large 

 size, sometimes 130 feet high, with a very 

 straight stem; wood light color, greenish 

 white, soft and light, not hard enough to 

 receive a polish. It is much used in cabinet work, 

 and for making panels for carriages, and for any 

 inside work where toughness or a hard surface is 

 not required. There is perhaps no native wood that 

 will shrink more in seasoning than whitewood, for 

 it not only shrinks sideways, but endways as well; 

 but when once thoroughly seasoned, it remains 

 fixed, and docs not warp or twist like many of the 

 hard and tough kinds of wood. There is also much 

 difference in character of the wood coming from 

 different sections of the country, and mechanics 

 who are conversant with the various kinds and lo- 

 calities will readily tell whether specimens came 

 from the West or East. The latter is of a light 

 greenish color, grain not so smooth and soft, and 

 sometimes rather tough. To produce good timber, 

 the soil should be deep and rich, and on such the 

 trees will grow very rapidly. The wood is little 

 used, except for the purposes mentioned above, 

 consequently it is only large trees that will be of 

 much value. It is one of the most beautiful 

 ornamental trees we possess, growing in a conical 

 form, and producing an abundance of its beautiful 

 tulip-shaped flowers in spring. The roots are soft 

 and sponge like, and it requires great care in re- 

 moving to insure success. Frequent transplanting 

 in the nursery is the best method for preparing the 

 trees for future removal. 



The question is often asked, "Is white- 

 wood good for bee-hives':"' It may do for 

 sections and honey boxes, but it is very un- 

 satisfactory for hives, for the reasons given 

 in this extract. 



HOW TO USE THE (OLD BLAST 

 SMOKE it 



Get some dry rotten wood, something that 

 you can break up easily with the hands, and 

 that is sufficiently dry to be lighted easily 

 with a match. Fill the smoker full of wood 

 broken up moderately fine, especially that 

 portion of it that is put in around the door. 

 Close the door, and turn the slide around so 

 as to have only the small draft hole open. 

 Now light your match, and hold it before 

 the draft hole, your smoker sitting on the 

 table, hive, or any support. The blaze of the 

 match will not go in and light the wood, of 

 course ; but if you work the bellows while 

 keeping the match before the draft "hole, 

 the blaze will shoot in and ignite the 

 rotten wood in a twinkling. Keep blowing 

 for a minute, and I think you will be satis- 

 fied with the amount of smoke. When you 

 want the smoker to go out, turn the ring so 

 as to close the damper. It should never go 

 out otherwise, if it is in proper order, and 

 your fuel right. 



If you wish to burn rags, make them into 

 a long roll, something like a sausage— I beg 

 pardon for the comparison — a slim bag, 

 stuffed with refuse rags such as you can buy 

 at the stores for a cent a lb. Coil this roll of 

 rags around the smoker inside, in a sort of 

 cork screw shape, so that no fold touches 

 the next, the lower end coming just before 

 the draft hole ; it will now burn slowly until 

 all is consumed, or until the draft is turned. 

 If you let one fold strike the next, it will 

 give more smoke, but of course will not burn 

 so long. The cone will, in time, get filled 

 up with soot, and to have the smoker burn 

 freely, this must be cleaned out when neces- 

 sary. It is easily removed, with a stick of 

 the proper shape. If you want a great 

 quantity of smoke, when you set your smok- 

 er down, set it so the wind will blow in at 

 the draft ; ordinarily I should turn it from 

 the wind, to save the fuel. Should the slide 

 at any time turn too tightly to suit you, 

 take out the screws and bend the tin so as to 

 make it work more loosely. 



If you do not make your smoker work 

 nicely with these instructions, write me and 

 tell where the trouble is, and I will see to it, 

 and write some more directions. 



Judging from experience, I think it will 

 be a good idea to go out into the woods with 

 a wagon, and get a good lot of nice rotten 

 wood. To rotten elm we rather give the pref- 

 erence. If you havn't a place where you 

 can keep it dry, build a small house on pur- 

 pose for it. Lay it out in the hot sun, until 

 it is perfectly dry, or dry it in an oven. 

 After you have got it dry, do not leave it 

 out in the rain. If you are awfully careless, 

 get your wife to help you to remember. 



