14 RIFLE AND SPEAR WITH THE RAJPOOTS. 



We were very much disappointed with the buildings of 

 the official capital of the Punjab. The English offices, 

 museum., court-houses, &c, built of colourless, dusty-looking 

 brick, are caricatures of Indian architecture, intensifying its 

 few vulgarities and missing altogether its simplicity and its 

 repose. If a jerry builder in the London suburbs were given 

 pictures of the Taj and Jumna Musjid, and told to run 

 up Board schools, town halls, &c, "in this style," he would 

 probably heap together a similar meaningless jumble of 

 minarets, domes, and chattels, with an occasional huge plate 

 glass window thrown in by way of a change. We have 

 reserved the native city, fort, and other sights, until we 

 return in December, when it will be cooler. It is very hot 

 now, and towards night a sort of damp, smoky-smelling mist 

 arises, that recalls the smouldering bonfires and burnt-out 

 fireworks of an English 5th of November. 



On our way we called for our letters at Government 

 House, which is a fine building, situated in the midst of a 

 pretty garden. The nucleus was the dome of an old shrine 

 now forming the dining-room, but large additions have been 

 made by Sir L. Lawrence and his successors. Sir Dennis 

 Fitzpatriek, the present Governor, is now away, but we 

 found a letter from him asking us to pay him a visit when 

 he returns in December. He also very kindly gave us a 

 letter of introduction to the Maharaja of the Chamba State, 

 where we propose going after Kashmir. 



