EQUINE ECCENTRICITY. 27 



Alan wanted the syce to come on with us to Baramula and 

 be attended by the doctor, but he preferred to return to his 

 own home, and a few rupees made him apparently quite 

 happy. 



Our new horses behaved in a novel and somewhat 

 startling manner. When the off one got bored he sat down 

 on his hind legs, like the trained circus-horse when the band 

 plays " Home, sweet Home," and the near one, turning 

 round his head, looked at him admiringly. This happened 

 every half-mile or so, and it was more by good luck than 

 judgment that we arrived that night at all. My only 

 wonder is that the poor little beasts get on as well as they 

 do. They are only about thirteen hands high, and so thin, 

 their backbone looks as if it would cut the reins, it is so 

 sharp. Besides some luggage and guns, there were Alan 

 and I, the driver, Alan's servant, and the groom ; and we 

 were considered quite a light load- — all the tongas we met 

 had much more. 



We got to Baramula about 5 p.m., just as a thunder- 

 storm broke, which lasted nearly all night. It was bitterly 

 cold, and the bungalow was only a two-roomed wooden 

 shanty, the old bungalow having been entirely destroyed by 

 an earthquake which, a few years ago, wrecked the town. 

 To-morrow we go on by boat. 



Saturday, October lbth. — Since early morning the house 

 has been surrounded by a shouting crowd of boatmen, each 



