A SCRATCH CREW. 31 



Our boat is followed by the cooking boat with our 

 servants on board, and their crew sang most of the 

 night. There were also many rats, who evidently con- 

 sidered us intruders, and once I awoke with a mouse 

 under my pillow. Several times, the man rowing forward 

 put his head over the reed screen to tell us when places 

 of interest were being passed. 



Early this morning we went through the Woolar lake. 

 There are a fair number of wild-fowl about, and at 

 daybreak Alan went oft' in a small canoe, and returned 

 about nine with a lot of teal and wild-duck. 



The scenery is very pretty, with snow mountains in 

 the distance, but parts of the river and canal are so 

 shallow that the men are frequently obliged to wade 

 and push the boat along. Occasionally we go aground. 

 We have discovered that the crew of seven we bargained 

 for consists of four men, a woman, and two little boys 

 just able to toddle. The captain assures us it is all 

 right, and brings out a copy of the rules which say 

 " women and boys over twelve years old are to count 

 as able-bodied seamen." However, he has since produced 

 another man and boy, for whom an increased wage 

 i;-, demanded, and sits down to argue it out. 



These boatmen seem to be a cheery good-tempered 

 race, with an endless flow of conversation. My not 

 understanding or speaking a word of Hindustani, or they 



