CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER X. 



I'AtiK 



Dholpur — Visit to the Maharaja — The Raja of Feridkot — Hospitality 

 in the East — The Maharaja as a sportsman — Dholpur the 

 Leicestershire of India — A day's shooting — A pig-sticking 

 experience — The Maharaja's stable and kennels — The old palace 

 and city — A tye-khana — Black buck — The Maharaja's new 

 house — Argot of the " Pink 'mi " — The old fort — Agra jail — A 

 model prison — The Secundra Bagh — The Taj — A dream that 

 might become a nightmare — A dear little room — Jehangir's 

 palace — Aligarh and its associations — A native dog-fancier — 

 En route to Muttra — An antelope's sagacity — Duck's liver — A 

 slight misunderstanding — After antelope — The black buck — 

 The richest man in India ........ 207 



CHAPTER XL 



The city of Muttra — Seth's palace — Life sacred to a Brahman — The 

 troublesome monkeys — Pilgrims and their strange vows — The 

 sanctity of Bindhaban — The sacred tanks of Govindhan — A 

 Hindoo Venice — Deeg — The Maharaja of Bhurtpore — A group 

 of palaces — Early Hindoo cum-Italian Renaissance-cum-Totten- 

 ham Court Road — In search of chinkara — Baroda — Colonel 

 Fraser, the Political Resident — The Residency — The Ulwar 

 tragedy — Major Ram Chunder hanged — An Indian version of 

 Henry II. and Thomas a Becket — The Maharaja Jey Singh — 

 Animal duels — The elephant stables — A savage brute — Tackling 

 a panther — In search of the sambhur — The Maharaja's mothers 

 — Performing horses — The old palace — Curious old arms — Show 

 and squalor .......... 229 



CHAPTER XII. 



A panther ride — A visit to the Ranees — Suttee — Colonel Fraser's 

 inspection tour — His camp — Neilghai — A panther — A pretty 

 camp — Sketching a "rut" — Jey Singh's anxiety about an 

 elephant — The rains — A demoralised camp — Hunting cheetahs 

 and lynxes — Good-bye to the little Raja — En route for Jeypore 

 — A Prime Minister en deshabille — A model town — Jeypore 

 metal workers — The manufacture of " old " arms — Zafir — A 

 simple old Brahman— A most superior person — Brahman 

 hospitality — The palace — The public gardens — The museum — 

 The old palaces at Amber — 'Arry on an elephant — Pig-sticking 

 in excelsis .......... 250 



CHAPTER XIII. 



At a nautch dance — The Nonconformist Conscience — An embarrass- 

 ing native custom — The bag of rupees — Indian railway accommo- 

 dation — Arrival at Rajghur — Groundbait for tigers^In an 

 elephant camp — Decorated elephants A tiger drive — Hermiron 

 Singh — The little Raja and his playfellows — Snake-charming 

 and hypnotism — Charming the foxes — News of a panther — An 

 amusing adventure — A sounder of wild boars — To Deoli in a 

 dak ghari— The Raja of Boondi's horoscope — His political 



