CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER V. 



PAGE 



Camping on the roof — The humours of spear-grass — Native faith in 

 the "sahib" — Missionaries and medicine — Field mice at Baler 

 — A mantelpiece and a precipice — A miller's wife a la Drury 

 Lane pantomime — The evil eye — A crazy bridge — The Chamba 

 valleys — Laziness as a fine art — Looking for tahir — The advan- 

 tages of roof-life — Starting for the Pass — A letter from the 

 Maharaja of Chamba — Manjere . . . . . .91 



CHAPTER VI. 



Chamba — The Maharaja's guest-house — The old English Residency 

 — Through the bazaar — A visit to the Maharaja and his brother, 

 Bhurie Singh — A Durbar Hall and a silver chair — Bound the 

 Palace — The Ranee — " Dustoor " — Tennis with the Raja — A 

 leopard hunt — A model town — Serenading a leopard — A real 

 Indian dinner — Shooting gooral — The old palace — A grotesque 

 escort — The Baja's aunt — The ayah as interpreter — Flights of 

 fancy — Wasted eloquence . . . . . . .113 



CHAPTER VII. 



Duck-shooting with the Maharaja — The "lone widower" — A happy 

 valley — En route for Pathankot — " Hubble-bubble toil and 

 trouble " — The baboo station master — An Indian " Joe Miller " 

 — The baboo and the tiger — Lahore — The Fort — Jumma Musjid 

 — Runjeet Singh's bedroom — The "Lion of the Punjab" — The 

 armoury — Runjeet Singh's tomb — Pind-dadan-khan — The 

 Tehsildar's English — Enterprising mosquitoes — The oorial — 

 Down a salt-mine — A transformation scene — On the road to 

 Kalar Kahar — Lost ! . . . . . . . .141 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Kalar Kahar — A pretty bungalow — A lake adventure — Stalking 

 the oorial — Halal — A Mahometan armoury — Santan and the 

 ayah — Maira — A bargain in mutton — An oorial on " sentry 

 go" — The "patient" camel — We reach Pail — A deluge in a 

 hill tent — A native house — A plague of hornets — All hands to 

 the "pumps" — A native village — The polite Lumbardar — The 

 Indian washerman . , . . . . . . .160 



CHAPTER IX. 



A Punjabi shikari — Mahomet's strategy — Nurpoor — The Salt 

 Revenue officer — A salt neighbourhood — After the oorial — 

 Loading the camels — A farcical comedy in three acts — The 

 ayah's courage of despair — A " bobbery " beast — Lilla railway 

 station — " Merry Christmas, sare " — Platelayer sahib — The 

 fatted calf — A funny railway story of a mid-day pill — Lahore 

 —The Maharaja of Kapurthala — Sir Dennis Fitzpatrick — The 

 Lahore "week" — Polo — The Maharaja of Putiala's team — Our 

 camel carriage — Hunting the boar — Coursing with cheetahs — 

 Amritza — The Golden Temple — A native carpet factory — Delhi 

 —The fort— The Pearl Mosque— The Jumma Musjid . .182 



