CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER J. 



PAGE 



Eii route — Sports on board — " Dear old tunes " — Church at a canter 

 — Music at sea — Bombay Harbour — Kurrachee — Government 

 House — An Indian WMteley — An aristocratic butler — Santan's 

 yaye d'a/mowr — Lahore — An Ali Baba coachman — " Sudden 

 death" ........... 1 



CHAPTER IT. 



Murree — Backsheesh and " Bahut achha Sahib " — Jibbing stage 

 horses — A dangerous road — Domel — A queer village — A spider- 

 haunted bungalow — Rampur en fete — Waiting for the Maharaja 

 — Hindoo and English peasant lads : a contrast — The Forty 

 Thieves — Baramula boatmen — Letters of (doubtful) recommen- 

 dation — Cookery under difficulties — A lively night — A scratch 

 crew — Srinagar — Married quarters — A race of amphibians — 

 Bahar Shah — A big " Liberty " room — A papier-mache grand- 

 father . . . . . . . . . .17 



CHAPTER III. 



The Apple-tree Canal — The Dahl Lake — Luncheon at the Nasim 

 Bagh — Shalimar Bagh — An "abode of love" — The Emperor 

 Jehangir and Queen Nur Mahal — A word-picture by Moore — A 

 sturdy beggar — The start for Islamabad — Floating tradesmen — 

 The Noble Presence — A " man of the world " — In a dandy chair 

 — "Where is Mahdoo the good boatman?" — Camping out 

 — Stalking the barasingh — The Maharaja's preserve — Kashmir 

 Valley — Bagging a bear — A dirty town — The Temple of the 

 Sun — Kashmiri shikaris — Khadra the dandy — An unlucky 

 coolie ........... 38 



CHAPTER IV. 



At the foot of the pass — A bear and a blizzard — A perilous path — 

 An eclipse of the moon — Novel effect — A Hindoo explanation 

 — Eccentricities of an ayah's packing — A day's sport above 

 Singpur — A colony of monkeys — Our first rope bridge — An 

 artful dog — Kishtiwar — An idol's lullaby — The Tehsildar — A 

 desolate missionary — A fight for a fowl — Chuprassie v. coolie — 

 Lord Lytton on the native chicken ...... 67 



