34 RIFLE AND Sl'EAR WITH THE RAJPOOTS. 



There are do hotels in Srinagar. but a few bungalows 

 where visitors who do not care to camp out can stop. 

 They gave us one of a row of funny little cottages on 

 the bank of the river, built by the State for married 

 visitors only. Ours contains two whitewashed bedrooms 

 and dressing-rooms, furnished with a table and chair : 

 that is all. Of course, people do not take the week's 

 journey up here only to stay two days, but generally 

 come for the summer, and with a little furniture and a 

 few rugs and curtains which can be bought in the bazaar 

 for two or three rupees, it is easy to make oneself fairly 

 comfortable in this lovely climate 



We leave to-morrow, so our household arrangements 

 are very primitive. Two sheets have been spread side 

 by side, on which all our clothes arc piled. Occasionally 

 m) r dresses are found on Alan's heap, then I retire .and 

 leave the ayah to explain matters, but seldom to his 

 satisfaction. It is a great saving in house room that the 

 servants never take off their clothes, and sleep in the 

 verandah, or outside your door. 



After luncheon we took a boat to the town, about 

 half an hour's row lower down the river. The houses of 

 wood and sun-dried brick are built on the water's edge, 

 and seemed mixed up and crowded together. Here and 

 there, wide flights of stone steps lead down to the river. 

 On these most of the inhabitants appear to live, some in 



