CHAPTER III. 



The Apple-tree Canal — The Dhal Lake — Luncheon at the Nasim Bagh — 

 Shalimar Bagh — An " abode of love " — The Emperor Jehangir and 

 Queen Nur Mahal — A word-picture by Moore — A sturdy beggar — 

 The start for Islamabad — Floating tradesmen — The Noble Presence 

 — A " man of the world " — In a dandy chair — " Where is Mahdoo 

 the good boatman ? " — Camping out — Stalking the barasingh — The 

 Maharaja's preserve — Kashmir Valley — Bagging a bear — A dirty 

 town — The Temple of the Sun — Kashmiri shikaris — Khadra the 

 dandy — An unlucky coolie. 



Wednesday, <>rt<>bcr 19///. — In front of our cottage is 

 ;i high narrow bank, built to keep the river within 

 bounds in flood time. From early dawn this morning. ;i 

 long row of natives have squatted on the top with their 

 knees up to their chins, looking like a line of crows on 

 a telegraph wire. They never stop shouting the excellence 

 of their wares, and offer us everything, from cart-ropes 

 to watch-springs. Each man carries a book of letters of 

 recommendation, which he thrusts into your hand at every 

 opportunity. They ask four times as much as they mean 

 to take, but apparently set more store on the wording of 

 the "chit" (letter), which they beg from you to add 

 to their book. It is their only form of advertisement. 

 After breakfast we started for the Dhal Lake, rowing 



