" WHERE IS MAHDOO, THE GOOD BO ATM AX ? 



On reaching the river we find we have not yet shaken off 

 our boatmen, and they are waiting to ferry us across. 

 Mahdoo is a little sulky, for he has found out that I pre- 

 sented Lassoo with the Army and Navy Stores list, which 

 we found on opening a case of provisions, also sundry guide 

 hooks, and other superfluous literature. 



The whole party, including dandy and pony, cross top-e- 

 ther, excepting Santan and the ayah, who have chosen this 

 moment to cook their dinners, and are left behind. At the 

 further side, Lassoo takes a ceremonious farewell of us, 

 kissing our hands and wishing us good luck. With me it 

 was not a dignified leave-taking, for in a native dandy it is 

 only possible to sit cross-legged like a tailor, and I was 

 rocking about, some four feet from the ground. Lassoo 

 noticed I was writing in a book (my diary), and suggested 

 to Alan that I ought to mention his name. Mahdoo, over- 

 hearing this, rushed up, and, running after me with bis 

 hands clasped on high, begged that he might not be for- 

 gotten. The whole procession had to be stopped whilst I 

 took down his name and address. "And now put 'good 

 boatman,' for if memsahib is writing a book other mem- 

 sahibs will read it, and will come to Baramula and ask 

 ' Where is Mahdoo the good boatman ? I not go t<> Srinagar 

 till he comes.' ' Then, determined to go one higher than 

 Lassoo, he shook hands cordially. Even after he had gone, 

 his smile, like that of Alice's Cheshire cat. seemed to remain. 



