5S RIFLE AND SPEAR WITH THE RAJPOOTS. 



Rahman wished us to move our camp nearer to the 

 Maharaja's preserve, and guaranteed our bagging two or 

 three bears if we would stay there a few days. But wc 

 were anxious t<> get across the Marbul Pass into Kishtiwar, 

 where we Imped to find barasingh more numerous, and 

 at this time of year a fall of snow might close the passes 

 at any time. In fact the}' are rarely open after the 

 cud of October. We therefore decided to return to Kanbul, 

 and then, after trying Halkin Galli for barasingh, to make 

 our way to Kishtiwar and Chamba. 



Halkin <;<<Ui, Saturday, Octbher 29t7i.—We left Kanbul 

 this morning, passing on our way Islamabad, the second 

 largest town in Kashmir, a collection of dirty houses on 

 a still dirtier river, and abounding in barking dogs and 

 bad smells. Whilst our coolies and servants took the 

 direct road, we made a detain- of ;i i'cw miles to visit 

 Martand, the Temple of the Sun. This old Hindoo shrine, 

 only the ruins of which now remain, was built in the 

 fifth century after Christ, and long before the Kashmiris 

 hail been converted to Mohammedanism. It stands on a 

 low. treeless plateau, the rocky bareness of which forms 

 a striking site for its massive ruins. The central building 

 is approached by a broad flight of steps, very few of which 

 now exist. The roof, too, has disappeared, but the heavy 

 stone walls, covered with weather-worn carving, in great 

 part remain, although those of the two side chapels incline 



