CHAPTER IV. 



At the foot of the pass — A bear and a blizzard — A perilous path — An 

 eclipse of the moon — Novel effect — A Hindoo explanation — Eccen- 

 tricities of an ayah's packing — A day's sport above Singpur — A 

 colony of monkeys — Our first rope-bridge — An artful dog — 

 Kisktiwar — -An Idol's lullaby — The Tehsildar— A desolate mission- 

 ary — A fight for a fowl — Chuprassie v. coolie — Lord Lytton on the 

 native chicken. 



November 3rd, — -It required all one's resolution to get 



up this morning. Everything was frozen, and even our 



sponges were solid blocks of ice. But Rahman is anxious 



to push on whilst it 



is fine, and says that 



if there is a heavy fall 



of snow we shall not 



be able to cross the 



pass at all. So we 



start as soon as the 



tents are struck. The 



steep ascent commences 



at once, the track 



running by a frozen watercourse, which, although very 



pretty, with long icicles hanging from the rocks, was 



F 2 



\ COOLIE. 



