82 RIFLE AND SPEAR WITH THE RAJPOOTS. 



At frequent intervals were the remains of carved stone 

 fountains for drinking, stone seats, and rest-houses, and 

 here and there a ruined temple. 



A steep descent the other side of the hill led down to the 

 Kishtiwar valley. The town was still some five miles off. 



Fortunately for me the road was along a flat grass 

 plain, with no more climbing, for I was very tired, and had 

 quite lost my voice from cold and fatigue. Kishtiwar is 

 entered by a road passing a little mosque, and through a 

 great graveyard stretching along either side of the path for 

 some half-mile. The graves are simple mounds of earth, 

 unmarked in any way, but thickly planted with a wild iris. 

 By itself, under a tree, was one with a large stone cross, 

 and an inscription that an Englishman, Lieut. Quinton 

 Hamilton, only twenty-three years old, who had died in 

 the neighbouring mountains, was here buried. 



Our tents were on the other side of the town, as there 

 was no good water nearer. We did not arrive till past 

 six o'clock, after a long and tiring march. Just as it got 

 dark a frightful din begins, beating of drums, tom-toms and 

 gongs, blowing of horns, and every discord possible. We 

 find we are camped near a Hindoo temple, and they are 

 putting the idol to sleep ! 



Friday 11th. — We had meant to start early, but it is 

 difficult to get coolies, as only the country people carry 

 loads. The townsmen do not, and Kishtiwar calls itself a 



