120 RIFLE AND SPEAR WITH THE RAJPOOTS. 



and orange being perhaps predominant. The women draped 

 in red and blue saris seem the busiest, and they hurry along 

 with big baskets of fruit, or red earthenware water jars on 

 their heads. Everywhere picturesque little corners, and lovely 

 bits of colour, which make one long to stop and sketch. 



Turning from the square, we enter a network of tiny 

 lanes : a slightly wider street through two rows of carved 

 wooden houses leading up to the palace. At the gate 

 is the guard-house, with a few smartly-dressed wiry- 

 looking! soldiers standing around. An English word of 

 command — ■" Attention," " Present arms," as the Maharaja 

 and his brother Bhurie Singh appear, and give us a hearty 

 welcome to Chamba. They are young, very good-looking 

 men, dressed like English gentlemen, but wearing turbans of 

 some soft-looking pale violet stuff, which makes a most 

 becoming headdress. The Maharaja leads us into a large 

 hall with deep-set stone windows glazed with bright stained 

 glass. After a short conversation he invites us to see the 

 palace, in which he evidently takes great interest. He 

 has just built a new Durbar Hall capable of seating eight 

 hundred people : the chair of State at the end is of silver. 

 On tables round are spread curious old inlaid knives and 

 pistols. Alan, who is a great collector of old arms, takes 

 one up to examine it, and finds that it is fastened to the 

 table by strong wire. I could not help saying that he 

 was evidently expected. 



