138 RIFLE AND SPEAR WITH THE RAJPOOTS. 



" Oh ! she only asked if you were fond of needlework, 

 and I told her No, you hated it, but did beautiful things 

 painting." Heaven only knows what she said of me 

 during the rest of the interview, but I have no doubt 

 it was in the same laudatory strain. These Indian ser- 

 vants have much esprit- de-corps, and make it a point 

 of honour to maintain that the sahib they are serving 

 is the greatest sahib in the world : probably because it 

 adds to their own importance ! I only hope the Ranee 

 does not think the ayah's gush is inspired by me, as in 

 that case she must have a poor opinion of my sense of 

 modesty. 



I was sorry not to see the Maharaja's own grand- 

 mother — the real Ranee ; but she is over eighty and 

 too old, or old-fashioned, to receive visitors. Before 

 I left we went over the palace. Nearly all the rooms 

 have one side open to the gallery, only screened off by 

 quilted hangings, sometimes with a low door or rail in 

 front, like a children's nursery at home. Most of the 

 walls are painted vermilion, with bright lacquer decorations. 

 Little looking-glasses the size of a small window-pane 

 are let into the plaster here and there, and line the 

 embrasures of the windows. 



The pierced lattice-work of these cushioned recesses 

 permits a free view of the world outside ; and at the 

 same time perfectly conceals the observer within. Natur- 



