142 RIFLE AND SPEAR WITH THE RAJPOOTS. 



and we cannot spare the time. To-day was lovely after 

 the rain, and the valley looked prettier than ever. The 

 fresh-fallen snow on the mountains came down almost to 

 the town, and lit up at sunset like the red glare of a 

 burning city. 



December 4th. — We all go out after the bear, 

 but, except a gooral Alan shot, saw nothing. In the 

 afternoon they played polo, and afterwards the Maharaja 

 and Bhurie Singh came to the Residency to bid us 

 good-bye. It is charming to see how nice these two 

 brothers are to each other. Whilst the elder seems 

 only to remember that they are brothers, the younger 

 never forgets the respect due to his Maharaja ; nor 

 sits down nor stands up, till his brother has first 

 done so. 



Nothing could possibly have exceeded their kindness 

 to us during our stay. We both feel as if we were 

 parting from old friends, and look forward to meeting 

 them next summer, when they think of coming to 

 England. 



All our heavy luggage and servants started early this 

 morning for the railway station at Pathankot, about sixty 

 miles' march, and we only kept behind Rahman and 

 Khadra, who are to accompany us to-morrow on mules. 

 The Maharaja's butler looked after us during the day ; 

 but after dinner regrets he cannot stop in the house at 



