Best Vegetables for Amateur Gardens^ 



I 



FOR amateur gardens I would re- 

 commend the use of the following- 

 vegetables : 

 Asparagus— Conover's Colossal or Ar- 

 genteuil. Place the rows four feet apart, 

 and the plants eighteen inches in the 

 rows ; apply manure liberally after the 

 cutting season (which should end June 

 J5th) and give good cultivation. Cut off 

 the tops in the fall when the berries are 

 red. 



Beets — Crosby's Egyptian, for early ; 

 Detroit Dark Red for main crop. Sow 

 early seed as soon as ground is fit, rows 

 twelve inches apart ; and for main crop 

 about June ist. Thin where the plants 

 are thick, and use as greens. 



Beans — Keeney's Rustless Wax, Ger- 

 man Stringless Green, Fordhook Bush 

 Lima, Cranberry Pole. 



Carrots — Chantenay. Sow as for beets 

 then thin to two inches apart. 



Cabbage — Early Jersey Wakefield or 

 Copenhagen Market for early ; Glory of 

 Enkhuizen or Savoy for main crop. For 

 the home garden the Savoy is the finest 

 quality cabbage, but is not as good a 

 keeper. Early cabbage should be started 

 the middle of March. Start late varieties 

 the end of June. 



Brussels Sprouts — Improved Dwarf, 

 Darlington. 



Cauliflower — Early Erfurt. Treat as 

 for cabbage. 



Corn Salad — Grown in late fall in the 

 place of lettuce. 



Cress — Extra Curled. Water cress. 

 Water cress must be kept soaked in 

 water. 



Celery — Golden Self-Blanching, for fall 

 and early winter ; Giant Pascal or Winter 

 Queen for winter use. Start seed in 

 April, transplant once when one inch 

 high, then into the field, rows four feet 

 apart, plants six inches in the rows. 



Corn — Early MalakofF, followed by 

 successive sowings every two weeks, of 

 Golden Bantam, Country Gentleman. 

 Plant as soon as danger of frost is over. 

 Although a golden yellow and thus like 

 field corn. Golden IBantam is the finest 

 quality of all the corns. Have rows four 

 feet apart, hills of three stalks eighteen 

 inches apart. 



Citron — Colorado Preserving. Sow in 

 hills six to eight feet apart, after all dan- 

 ger of frost is over, then thin to three 

 plants in a hill. 



Cucumber — Cumberland for large cu- 

 cumber, or Perfection White Spine; Chi- 

 cago Pickling for picklers. Plant in hills 

 four feet each way. It is best to use 

 the indoor method. 



EggPlant — Black Beauty. Sow the 

 seed the middle of March in hotbeds, and 



•Extract from an addrew dclivprprt heforp thp 

 recent convention of the Ontario Hortkmltora) 

 Association. 



Prof. A. H. McLennan, O. A. C, Guelph, Ont. 



transplant to field when danger of frost 

 is past. 



Endive — French Curled and Green 

 Curled. 



Kale — Dwarf lirfurt or Dreienbrunnen. 

 Sow as for late cabbage, and plant the 

 same. 



Kohl-Rabi — Early White or Purple 

 X'ienna. Sow seed early for summer use 

 :ind again about the middle of June for 

 winter use. 



Lettuce — New York Iceberg, Grand 

 Rapids. Sow seed as early as possible, 

 then every three weeks for succession. 

 Thin to three inches, then six, then 

 tvv-elve, to secure good heads. 



IVfusk Melon — Spicy, Osage. These 

 may be grown in a hotbed in pots, and 

 then transplanted, or seed may be sown 

 in enriched soil in hills five to six feet 

 apart after danger of frost. 

 Leek — Musselburg. 



Onions — Yellow Globe Danvers, 

 Southport Yellow Globe, and Southport 

 Red Globe. Sow seed as early as possi- 

 ble in rows twelve inches apart. Use 

 the thinnings as green onions. Thin to 

 three inches for large onions. Start in 

 hotbed and transplant some Spanish as 

 Denia, Ailsa Craig or Giant White 

 Leviathan. 



Parsnips — Hollow Crown. Sow as 

 early as possible in rows twelve inches 

 apart ; thin out to three inches. Leave 

 some of the crop in the ground over win- 

 ter for early spring use. 



Peas — Sutton's Excelsior for medium ; 

 and Gradus or Stratagem for last. Sow 

 the early as soon as possible, and the 

 others two weeks later in succession. 

 Parsley— Triple Curled, XXX. 

 Potatoes — Early Eureka for early ; 

 Green Mountain, or Up-to-Date for 

 late. Use whole two ounce sets. 

 Early potatoes should be placed in a 

 light warm room for three or four weeks 

 before planting so that they will sprout, 

 then take off all but the strongest shoots. 

 They can be placed in the ground as soon 

 as danger of severe frost is over. The 

 late varieties are planted May 24th. 



Pumpkin — Connecticut Field. Plant 

 as for citron. 



Radish — Scarlet Turnip White Tip, 

 White Icicle. Sow as early as possible 

 in rows twelve inches apart, and follow- 

 in succession. For winter use, China 

 Rose or Black Spanish, and sow where 

 early peas were removed. 



Rhubarb — Victoria, St. Martin's. Plant 

 four by four feet. Manure liberally in 

 fall and cultivate thoroughly. Break ofT 

 all seed-stalks as they apjjear. Have 

 some plants in the cellar in the winter 

 to force. 



Salsify — -Mammoth Sandwich Island. 

 Handle like parsnips. 



Spinach — Victoria. Sow as early as 

 possible ; then every month for succes- 

 sion. 



Squash — Crookneck or Bush Scallop 

 for summer; Warty Hubbard or Boston 

 Marrow for winter. Plant after danger 

 of frost. Bush varieties four feet apart; 

 others eight feet. 



Swiss Chard — Sow early, will produce 

 all season. Outer stems are broken off 

 and used as greens. 



Tomatoes — Bonny Best. Sow seed in 

 a hot bed, the first to middle of March. 

 Transplant to open when danger of frost 

 is past. 



Turnips — Extra Early Purple Top 

 Milan, Golden Ball, Hazard's Swede. 

 Sow early for summer use, and about 

 the middle of June for late. 



Vegetable Marrow — Long White Bush, 

 English Vegetable Marrow. Plant as 

 for cucumbers. 



Water Melon — Hungarian Honey, 

 Cole's Early, Harris' Early. These are 

 the most likely to ripen in northern sec- 

 tions. Plant eight feet apart each way. 



Vegetable Jottings 



A comparison of the yield of twelve 

 strains of Earliana tomato for two years 

 showed a difference of seven tons per 

 acre. Not only was there a difference in 

 yield, but there was a difference in the 

 character of the fruit. This fact is im- 

 portant from the standpoint of many 

 producers. A corresponding test of 

 Matchless showed a difference of five and 

 seven-tenths tons per acre. In a larger 

 experiment started in igog we noted ap- 

 parent substitution of varieties in several 

 instances. In a variety test of sixty- 

 two so-called varieties we observed the 

 practice of applying a new name to a well 

 known variety. ^Prof. C. E. Myers, State 

 College, Pa. 



Experiments have shown excellent re- 

 sults from the use of Bug Death in keep- 

 ing the potatoes free from the ravages 

 of the Colorado beetle. This treatment, 

 however, is considerably more expensive 

 than that in which Paris green is used. 

 Experiments are being conducted with 

 different proportions of lead arsenate, 

 and the results will be published shortly. 

 For the blight it has been found that 

 three treatments with the bordeaux mix- 

 ture, in which the potato plants were 

 sprayed both above and underneath the 

 leaves, have been about as effectual as 

 six treatments in which the sprayings 

 were all made on the tops of the leaves. 

 As machines are now made for spraying 

 underneath the leaves as well as on the 

 upper surface, we believe that the blight 

 can be controlled much more readily than 

 when the sprayings were all made from 

 above the plants. 



