Seasonable Suggestions for Garden Work 



THERE is no time of the year that 

 offers greater opportunities for 

 getting ahead with the work in the 

 garden than the fail. Worlc done at 

 this season will facilitate operations 

 when nature rouses the occupants of the 

 garden from their winter's rest in the 

 spring. If work is left over until then, 

 it will probably not be done at all. 



There is no better time for preparing 

 the ground for the roses you intend to 

 set out next spring. An open, sunny 

 position, sheltered from boisterous 

 winds, is an ideal location for a rose 

 garden. Roses will do tolerably well in 

 almost any good garden soil, but for best 

 results a fairly strong, retentive loam, 

 such as will keep the roots cool and 

 moist, is essential. Spade out the soil 

 to a depth of two feet. In the bottom 

 place six inches of clinkers, brickbats, 

 or other material that will ensure good 

 drainage. Over this, to prevent the 

 finer soil clogging the drainage, place a 

 layer of marsh grass, hay or straw. Fill 

 up with the remainder of the soil, to 

 which should be added a liberal dressing 

 of thoroughly decayed barnyard manure. 

 Raise the bed somewhat higher than it 

 was originally to allow for settling dur- 

 ing the winter. 



Continue to harvest vegetables, clean 

 and spade the land. Nothing looks 

 worse than an untidy vegetable garden. 

 Old leaves and rubbish left lying round 

 make the finest possible medium for in- 

 sect and fungus pests to hibernate in 

 during the winter, only to give you more 

 trouble next year. Therefore, clean 

 them out and save yourself a lot of need- 



Henry Gibson, Staatsburg 



less worry, and perhaps some valuable 

 crops. 



If your garden has received large 

 quantities of barnyard manure year after 

 year, a good dressing of lime will be 

 beneficial, in fact a necessity. Lime dis- 

 integrates or lets loose, as it were, valu- 

 able plant foods in the soil which are 

 otherwise unavailable. Half a ton per 

 acre of fine ground or air-slaked lime 

 will be enough. Spread it on as evenly 

 as possible, and then rake it in. 



Potash maniuring is indispensable if 

 you would have your garden produce a 

 maximum yield, but there is danger from 

 ' burning if a high grade of sulphate or 

 muriate of potash is used in the spring, 

 hence it is better to do it now. An aver- 

 age of two hundred pounds per acre of 

 either of the above-named forms of 

 potash will be suflScient, and the harm- 

 ful liming qualities will have been wash- 

 ed away before next growing season. 



Basic slag is to be recommended as 

 the means of supplying phosphoric acid 

 to the soil, and it is generally conceded 

 to be the best and cheapest means to 

 this end. Where results are expected 

 the next growing season, it should al- 

 ways be applied in the autumn. A 

 finely ground sample is the most quickly 

 available, and produces the best results. 

 About one thousand pounds per acre or 

 a little more will be all right. 



These suggestions are just as appli- 

 cable to the orchard and small bush 

 fruits such as gooseberries, currants and 

 raspberries as they are to the vegetable 

 garden. 



N1i—iW> 



A View of the Calceolaria Border at the Guelph Agricultural College 



Pruning of the small fruits, such as 

 currants, gooseberries, and raspberries, 

 should not be overlooked. This work is 



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An October Blooming Roie 



This rose bush, on the lawn of Mr. R. W. Turner, 



Peterljoro. Ont., produced some 100 blooms last 



summer, and bloomed again last month- 



best performed during mild weather, and 

 the amateur with only a small collection 

 may easily choose his time for this. In 

 pruning currants, the new wood should 

 be "hinned out, where it is very dense, 

 to allow free access of light and air to 

 the centre of the bush, the main shoots 

 shortened back about six inches, and 

 the spurs cut close in. Red and white 

 currants carry their crop on spurs, and 

 shortening back the main shoots encour- 

 ages the formation of these. With black 

 currants, however, the case is different. 

 They bear next season's crop on the 

 wood produced during the past season, 

 and in pruning every* effort should be 

 made to preserve the young wood so as 

 to replace the old which does not pro- 

 duce good fruit. Black currants should 

 not be pruned to spurs. With goose- 

 berries the spurs should be preserved 

 and the strong ripened shoots of the 

 previous summer retained as far as prac- 

 ticable. 



CANE FRUITS 



Rasplserries should have all the old 

 canes cut away. The young canes which 

 are to fruit next year will stand the win- 

 ter all the better for the ripening they 

 will get by the increased exposure to the 

 sun as a result of cutting away the old 

 canes. Raspberries that are tender 



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