HORIZONTALS ON WALLS 15 



ESPALIERS 



in the open ground (according to some good growers) 

 are the most economical of space, but I do not 

 care much for them. Train at first from maidens as 

 for a pyramid, keeping one upright shoot and guiding 

 one branch each side in an almost horizontal position. 

 Cut back the leader once a year at first at about 12 or 

 15 inches from the branch below to one bud just above 

 the buds whence the branches are to spring. From this 

 one bud the upright leader will grow. The branches 

 should be about a foot apart. Stop the topmost in 

 summer (if very strong) to divert the sap into other 

 parts. Stop strong horizontals to strengthen the weak 

 and to promote fruit-buds. Stop shoots on the branches 

 late in June or in July at six full leaves, if the tree 

 is flourishing, but not otherwise. Equalise the sap as 

 far as possible. Espaliers may be bought from the 

 nurseries, saving several years. Plant 15 or 20 feet 

 apart according to ground and tree. Support with rails 

 or stout firm stakes placed 2 J feet from the walk ; place 

 the tree 3 inches from the stake on the side of the path. 

 Keep the trees low to prevent shade on the garden ; 5 

 feet is high enough. Prune established trees in July, 

 cutting back fresh shoots (laterals) to six leaves, and 

 opening the tree and fruit to the sun, removing shoots 

 not needed. Reduce to two or three buds in winter ; 

 with a small saw cut back large lumpy pieces the growth 

 of years. 



HORIZONTALS ON WALLS 



should be trained as Espaliers. They are better 

 for a low than a high wall. The branches should 

 be about a foot (four bricks) apart. In some old 

 gardens, enormous Horizontals may be seen with 



