BUSHES 19 



manure given in the autumn will attract and feed the 

 roots. Fruit on low bushes is less affected by strong 

 winds. Some sorts do better as bushes than as pyramids ; 

 bushes, too, are more under control. A maiden tree 

 after planting should be allowed to grow for a year 

 unchecked, to establish the roots. In winter cut 

 the tree back to within a foot of the ground. In the 

 spring it will throw out vigorous shoots. Select three 

 or four of these, and fix them in position with stakes, 

 removing the others. Next winter cut these back to 

 an outer eye, leaving six or nine inches of each branch 

 from the stem. Other branches will soon follow. 

 Time will be saved by buying bushes from the nursery. 

 Keep these as open as possible, especially on the south 

 side and the centre. Each branch should be a foot 

 apart. Summer prune in July and winter as before. 

 Stop the branches in summer, if growing rapidly, to 

 produce fruit spurs, and in winter cut back to strong 

 wood (to an outer eye). All new wood will thus be 

 feathered during the following year. Some bushes are 

 very diffuse and need much room, e.g. Catillac and 

 Uvedale St Germain. Bushes on quince should be 

 eight to twelve feet apart ; strong growers, such as 

 Pitmaston, Duchesse d'Angouleme, Catillac, should be 

 even more in good soil, if root-pruning is not to be 

 practised. The following are good as bush trees : 



Dessert Pears. Doyenne d'Ete (very early), Beurre 

 Giffard, Jargonelle, B. d'Amanlis, Doyenne Boussoch, 

 Louise Bonne, Pitmaston Duchess, Emile d'Heyst, B. 

 Diel, Forelle or Trout Pear, B. Clairgeau, Winter 

 Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Passe Crassanne, Easter 

 Beurre. 



Cooking Pears. Catillac, Uvedale's St Germain, Veru- 

 lam (more compact), Bellissime d'Hiver (grows like a 

 cypress). Others might be added. Some of these do 

 well also as pyramids. 



