20 THE BOOIv OF PEARS AND PLUMS 



CORDONS 



oblique or diagonal, on one stem only, are my 

 favourites. The finest fruit can be grown on them 

 even in the open, if the situation is good and well pro- 

 tected. They are usually placed against a wall, but they 

 also do well on wires. These should be put near a 

 path about 1 8 inches or 2 feet away, and 2 to 3 feet 

 should be allowed the other side. If the wires run N. 

 and S., the best fruit will be on the S. side. E. and W. 

 is a better aspect, but both are good if there is shelter. 

 On a wall, S. or S.W. is best. Plant single cordons 

 in good ground, they will soon grow and bear. Double- 

 grafted trees are dearer, yet cheap. All in such soil 

 should be on Quince. On chalk or gravel soils they 

 must be on the pear or free stock. Older trees cost a 

 trifle more, but never buy old trees. Old trees are like 

 old folks, they rarely transplant well. Avoid horizontal 

 or double cordons. The former are too near the ground, 

 and often in the gardener's way. The latter are not 

 so manageable as single stems. Sometimes single stems 

 fail from various causes ; they can be easily removed, and 

 a fresh tree substituted at little cost. In a year or two 

 the new tree, if not cropped at first, may begin to do 

 well and bear fruit. Plant 1 8 or 20 inches from each 

 other at an angle of 45 ; when the tree reaches the top 

 wire, train it onwards. After a time, this wire may be 

 crowded ; then a tree here and there may be allowed 

 (as a single stem) to go upwards. But root-pruning 

 (half a side only) each year will keep gross growers in 

 check. Stop the tops of strong growers of any size 

 after planting to produce fruit buds, and always remove 

 blossom buds at the top. All varieties do well as 

 cordons ; the most tender should be planted in the best 

 protected and warmest spot. The wires (galvanised) 

 should be stretched from iron posts, the latter 



