PRUNING AND TRAINING 87 



again. Keep the trees open to sun and air. Cherries 

 on wall should be on the fan system, and pinched back 

 in July. The branches should be 9 inches apart for 

 Duke Cherries, 12 for Bigarreau. If trained horizon- 

 tally or as espaliers, shorten the shoots on the upper 

 branches a week or two before those on the lower. 

 Keep the shoots near the wall. When sufficient main 

 branches are formed to cover the wall, do not cut back 

 the leaders again. Be sparing with the knife. After 

 two or three years fruit spurs will form, but not much 

 surplus wood. Morellos require special treatment. The 

 fruit is usually found on the wood of the previous year. 

 Train young shoots in to replace the old, and cut out, 

 when the fruit is off, all the old that can be spared. In 

 standards, pyramids and bushes, thin out the branches. 



APHIDES are the chief enemy, especially on walls. 

 Syringe with tobacco water made by pouring I gallon 

 of soft boiling water on 2 ozs. of strong shag tobacco ; 

 add 2 ozs. of soft soap to the water when poured on the 

 tobacco. Strain off and use cold. This solution is also 

 good against the 'pear slugworm, which attacks cherries 

 as well as pears. Follow this prescription by a good 

 syringing of cold water the following morning. The 

 roots of cherries are near the surface so that the ground 

 above them must not be dug. 



STANDARDS 



in strong soil should be 30 feet apart, 24 feet 

 in lighter ground. They are best on grass which is 

 used for pasture. The trees then should be 30 feet 

 from each other. The Kentish Red are sometimes 15 

 or 1 8 feet only. Between standards at 24 feet apart 

 bush trees of various kinds may be planted (apples, 

 pears, plums), the two former on dwarfing stocks; 

 there should be two between each standard 8 feet apart. 



