A|)ril, 1915. 



American Hee Joornal j 



1. I want to destroy that queen and give 

 the colony a frame of unsealed brood with 

 adhering bees from one of the other colo- 

 nies, which is very prolific. None has yet 

 aaueen-cell; will it worl< all right i' 



2. Should I shake some bees from another 

 frame into the weak hive will they be ac- 

 cepted with a flight, and where should I 

 place the frame of brood, in the middle of 

 the hive or at one side ? The bees have 

 plenty of stores. I fed them all winter on 

 sugar syrup, two to one. and they have it 

 sealed in their frames. One colony is so 

 strong that I had lo place another lo-frame 

 hive on top. and thai is the one from which 

 I would like to get a queen for the weak 

 colony ? 



^. When is the best time to make this 

 change? California. 



Answers.— I. It may and it may not. If 

 you leave their old brood and merely add 

 another frame of the brood of better stock, 

 the chances are three to one that the young 

 queen will be of the old stock. You can 

 take away all the old brood and leave them 

 only the one frame of choice brood, or you 

 can. a week after killing the queen, kill all 

 cells started, and then give them the frame 

 of choice brood. Still another way. and a 

 good way. is to swap their frames of brood 

 tor an equal number from your best stock. 



2. Of course the colony will be stronger, 

 and all the more likely to rear a good queen 

 if you strengthen it with bees from another 

 colony. There is not likely to be fighting. 

 especially if the bees be given a day or two 

 after the queen is removed. Put the frame 

 of brood in the middle. 



3. You can operate any time after the bees 

 get well to work. 



Requeening Which Hive to Use ? 



1. If I introduce an Italian queen into a 

 black colony of bees, will its offspring be 



pure ? 



2. I have 1) colonies. How many queens 

 ought I to get to Italianize all of them ? 



3. Will they breed the blacks out ? 



4. Which hive do you think the better, the 

 8 or 10 frame? Kentucky. 



Answers. —1. When a new fertilized 

 queen is introduced all the bees in the hive 

 will be of the new stock just as soon as the 

 offspring of the old queen have died off, and 

 in the busy season that will be in about two 

 months or a little more. If the new queen 

 is pure Italian and purely mated, then all 

 the new workers will be Italians. 



2. It will take 13 queens, one for each col. 

 ony, to Italianize them, if you want the 

 change in blood to take place at once. If 

 you will take more time to it. you can Ital- 

 ianize one or several at the start, and then 

 from this new stock rear queens for the 

 rest. 



1 On the contrary, the blacks are likely 

 to run out the Italians, especially if blacks 

 are in the neighboring apiaries all around 

 you. To keep up your stock it may be nee 

 essary for you to get one or more tiueens of 

 pure blood every year or two. at least for 

 some time. 



4. Generally the lo-frame. 



I 



Transferring by the Swarm Method 



I have 2; colonies in old box hives that I 

 wish to transfer this spring. 1 bought them 

 in November, ign, and thought I would 

 transfer them last spring, but a severe 

 drouth came on early in May. then I wailed 

 until June i. thinking they would build up 

 and get stronger. I transferred one June i. 

 by the Wilder plan but they started rob- 

 bing and I had to stop. I have looked 

 through my old bee journals back to 1000. 

 but cannot find just what I want. I would 

 like to transfer them on full sheets of wired 

 foundation and not give them any of the old 

 comb. Can I do this, and if so when would 

 be the best time? I have kept bees eight 

 years, and have 81 colonies. Arkansas. 



Answer.— Likely this plan mayl'suit you: 



Wait unlil the colony swarms; then hive 

 the swarm in the new hive filled with its 

 frames of foundation, set it on the old stand 

 and set the old hive close beside it. A week 

 later move the old hive to a new stand six 



feet or more away. Two weeks later stil 1 

 at which time all the worker brood will 

 have hatched out break up the old hive, 

 adding the bees to the swarm, and melting 

 up the combs. 



Recreation for a Postal Clerk 



In the cut you can see my apiary in the 

 rear of my back yard in this little city of 

 6000. My bees do not cause any annoyance 

 to my neighbors and are very profitable, and 

 working them provides me a very much 

 needed outdoor exercise. 



I have been reared among them, and early 

 in life learned to love them. Nly first ex- 

 perience was with the common black bee 

 and the round log and box-hives. As I 

 learned them and began to study books on 

 the subject. I determined some day to have 

 an apiary with the very best hives and the 

 best stock of Italian bees. This I now claim 

 to have. 



With this small lot of pure three-banded 

 Italians, we have all the honey our family 

 will make use of and some to spare I have 

 taken great pains in selecting my queens, 

 and have discarded every one that does not 

 give the very best results. 



I procured my stock from some of our best 

 breeders. We are not in the very best 

 honey location here, but my home and busi- 

 ness are here, and I work my bees during 

 spare time. You can see in the cut a6-£oot 

 fence that I erected so that my bees would 

 not bother my neighbors. My banner col- 

 ony last year gave me $12 worth of surplus 

 at 20 cents per pound. J. L Leath. 



Corinth. Miss. 



wild plums were budding. The bees were 

 working as busy as in the main honey-flow. 

 I visited several beekeepers, and saw at 

 some hives combs built under and on the 

 sides. One swarm had its home on a limb 

 of a tree. Of course, they were sheltered to 

 keep the rain off ; they are there more for 

 curiosity than for anything else. 



I saw several old-fashioned log-hives, some 

 had cracks from top to bottom the size of 

 my two fingers, and wintered through all 

 right, and had sealed brood to the bottom. 

 The beekeepers expected swarms in 

 March. The locality is full of gooseberries, 

 huckleberries, blackberries, black gum and 

 other wild honey plants. I aim to move 

 there as soon as I can. 



Peter Schaffhouser. 



Indianapolis. Ind.. March 3. 



Look for Good Season 



The indications are for a good honey year. 

 The bees were carrying in pollen on Wash- 

 ington's birthday. All colonies are alive 

 and doing well. We are in hopes of having 

 a very prosperous season. 



W. H, Poole & Son. 



Yonkers, N. Y. . Feb. 25, 



Mr. F. Wilcox Reports 



Bees appear to be wintering well here. 

 There is some European foulbrood in this 

 county yet. F. WiLco.x. 



Mauston, Wis.. Feb. 15. 



Bees in Carolina 



I have just returned from southeastern 

 North Carolina, and can give our friend 

 in England, on page 64. an answer. I was 

 there nearly three weeks. I saw. on Feb. 12. 

 hatching brood: the maple, violets, and 

 jonquils were in full bloom: the roses and 



Spraying During Bloom 



It will soon be time for spraying. For all 

 fungus diseases on fruit trees, spraying 

 should be done early; that is. before bloom- 

 ing time, and before the leaves are out. The 

 material usually used is the lime sulphur 

 mixture or Bordeaux mixture. If spraying 

 for the insects that get into the fruit, espe- 

 cially the codling moth worm, this should 

 be done not sooner than after the bloom has 

 fallen. 



I have the life history of the codling moth 

 by Prof M. V. Slingerland. of Ithaca. N. Y.. 

 and Prof, Fabian Garcia, of Santa. Fe, New 

 Mexico. While thelast mentioned is located 

 so far south, yet his account and Prof. Slin- 

 gerland gives nearly the same time for the 

 codling moth to first make its appearance 



APIARY AND HOME OF J. L. LEATH AT CORINTH, MISS. 



