AMERICAN INSTITUTE. 28T 



the sun, and no more leaves must be left than will fill the space. No 

 healthy leaf grows in the shade. Vines suffered to bear too full the third 

 year are ruined ever after. 



The fourth year, train up four upright canes, and these will each pro- 

 duce three bunches, and the horizontal shoots will produce twenty-four 

 bunches and bud out new shoots. Only three bunches to a shoot should 

 be grown, and a bunch never should be exposed to the noon-day sun. 

 Training vines upon the trellis is best for the vineyard. The arbor gives 

 shade, and may give satisfaction ; but the trellis gives the most fruit. Four 

 feet length of elevation of canes is as much as will produce perfect fruit. 



At the end of the seventh year the vine is fully established, with three 

 branches on each shoot, which will give six bunches, three on each arm 

 between each upright. At the base of each shoot is a bud for the fruit- 

 bearing shoot next year. The ends of the fruit-bearing branches must be 

 stopped at about two feet from the base. It will shoot again, and must be 

 stopped again, and this stopping is best done by merely pinching the vine 

 at the right point with thumb and fingers, leaving one leaf. The best thing 

 to tie vines to. the trellis wires is basket willow. Bulrushes are also good. 

 Hatters' trimmings are also recommended. 



If all the buds are permitted to grow, the vine will soon be ruined. 

 The best bunches always grow nearest the stalk. November is the best 

 time to shorten back a vine to the buds that are to be left fur bearing. It 

 is an object with the young vine to cut back or stop the growth of branches, 

 to give strength to the root. Pinching the bud of a growing vine is to 

 give vigor to the root, as well as the buds that are to furnish the canes for 

 fruit next year. 



The doctor exhibited vines one year old six feet long, and two years 

 old twelve feet long, grown from two-eyed cuttings of the Diana Grape, 

 which is considered a slow grower. Long cuttings should never be 

 planted. Take a cutting with three eyes and set it in the ground, so that 

 the upper one is half an inch under the surface. Two or three eyes are 

 better ; two eyes are best. A serpentine form given to a young vine 

 makes it grow stronger. The best plan to get new vines is by layers. It 

 makes vines that will bear earlier. I have seen five bunches upon a Dela- 

 ware cane of one year, grow perfect. But three bunches to a cane, gene- 

 rally, is as much as can be depended upon. A vine must not be made 

 to overbear, or over-produce wood. Sparing the knife spoils the vine. I 

 think, in this country, that the trellis form of growing vines, both for wine 

 and market fruit, will be the best plan — better than growing upon stakes. 

 On posts seven or eight feet high place five wires, and set the rows ten feet 

 apart, and running north and south if convenient. Grapes can be grown 

 to advantage in the city. A vigorous vine can be carried up six or eight 

 feet a year, without bearing until it reaches the top of the house, and there 

 trained upon a trellis, and produce good fruit many years. Vines can, 

 also, be trained upon brick walls, or in yards, that have four hours of sun 

 a day. It is not necessary that the sun shine on the ground where a vine 



