98 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



April, 1914 



I'^or t.-ill lH'r(),-!<'('Oiis plants we select 

 larkspur, rudbeckia, Bostonia, phlox, 

 campanula, fox glove and hollyhock. For 

 shorter growing kinds we have colum- 

 bine, oriental poppy, dwarf phlox, iris in 

 variety, achillea and chrysanthemums. 



In our garden we must find room for 

 annuals such as asters, petunias, nas- 

 turtiums, stocks, antirrihums and Indian 

 pinks. For a small circular bed at 

 the end of the walk nothing looks 

 better than one of pink geraniums mass- 

 ed and margined with a circle of sweet 

 alyssum. If our space allows and we have 

 room for one of a more ambitious nat- 

 ure let the centre be a castor oil plant 

 encircLd by a row of canna, next a row 

 of ooleus Verschappildint of Perilla 



Nankiinaii, :i row of scarlet geraniums, 

 margined by a circle of suitable edging;. 

 A little study and observation combined 

 with experience gives anyone interested 

 the necessary knowledge to make any 

 number of combinations. 



Climbing plants have an imj)ortant 

 partin our decorative work. For brick 

 houses or stone the Boston ivy is unsur- 

 passed, but for training up on a veran- 

 dah or trellises roses are first, and then 

 clematis. 



For annuals, the most valuable would 

 be cobea scandens, morning glory, doli- 

 chos and scarlet runner. 



Make it a point to have some floral 

 effect by one flower to dominate your 

 garden. 



Home Culture of Chrysanthetnums 



W. Hunt, Ontario Agricultural College, Guelph 



(Continued from 



WHEN the roots of chrysanthe- 

 mums are aboutaninch inlength, 

 which should be in about five or 

 six weeks from the time they were 

 set, they can be potted off singly into 

 small two and a half or three inch pots. 



Chrysaathemuin Cattiogi, Rooted and Not Rooted 



or set about one and one-half inches 

 apart in shallow boxes. Use the same 

 kind of soil and treatment as recom- 

 mended for the root divisions, and re-pot 

 them into larger pots as soon as the 

 roots fill the smaller ones. About the 

 end of June or early in July the plants 

 may be potted into quite large seven or 

 eight inch pots. The pots may be sunk 

 to the rim out of doors in the open gar- 

 den early in June. Place a piece of slate 

 or stone, or an inch or two in depth of 

 coal ashes underneath the pots outside 

 to keep out earth worms and prevent the 

 roots from getting through the bottom. 

 The plants may be planted out of the 

 pots in the open ground instead of pot- 

 ting them. Give the plants plenty of 

 water at the roots and keep the tops 



March issue.) 



sprayed every day with clear or soapy 



water, in hot weather, as well as with 

 insecticides. 



Plants can be raised from seed that 

 will flower the first season if the seed 

 is sown early in February indoors. The 

 young seedlings should be transplanted 

 singly into small pots, or be set about 

 two inches apart in shallow boxes in 

 good potting soil when four or five small 

 leaves have developed. Grow these on 

 indoors until about the middle of May, 

 when they may be stood out of doors to 

 harden, and be planted out in the open 

 garden, or be potted into large pots, 

 and the pots sunk out in the garden, 

 and treated as before described for 

 plants, from divisions and cuttings. The 

 summer care and insect enemies of 

 chrysanthemums will be described in a 

 later issue. 



During the winter place the plants in 

 a sunny window away from fire heat as 

 much as possible to flower. A temper- 

 ature of fifty to fifty-five degrees will 

 suit them. After the plants are through 

 flowering, cut the tops down and place 

 the plants in a cool window, tempera- 



Section of Plant Before Dividing 



ture forty to forty-five degrees, or they 

 may be put in a light cellar or base 

 ment in about the same temperature. 

 Keep the soil moist, not too wet, all win- 

 ter. Bring the plants out in the spring 

 early in March, and start them into 

 growth on the window before dividing 

 them up or taking cuttings. 



White — Early Snow, Smith's Ad- 

 vance, and White Cloud. 



Yellow — Golden Glow, Golden Gate, 

 and Golden Chadwick. 



Pink — Glory of Pacific, Pacific Su- 

 preme, and Uganda. Nellie Pockett, 



Young Chrysanthemum Plant Before and After 

 " Pinching " or " Topping " 



Section of Plant After Dividing 



cream color; Brutus, orange red; and 

 Black Hawk, crimson, are other good 

 varieties. 



Good pompon (small floweiing) varie- 

 ties are : Rose Travenna and Alena, 

 pink; Snowdrop, Anna and Nic, white; 

 Klondike, yellow ; Mme. Beau, bronzy 

 old gold ; Julia Lagravere, red ; Lady- 

 smith, pink. 



Liquid solutions of manure water 

 should be given chrysanthemum plants 

 as soon as the buds show, or earlier if 

 necessary. It is best to discontinue the 

 liquid manure as soon as the flowers 

 show color. Clay's Fertilizer or Bon- 

 ora, sold at seed stores, are good com- 

 mercial fertilizers. One-fourth part of a 

 pail of cow manure and about one fXJund 

 of chicken manure put in a pail, the pail 

 filled up with water, well stirred, and 



