NoveniJ>er, 1914. 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



267 



A Crop of Onions Well Worth Harvesting < 



South-Weswm Ontario, includine Dortions of Essex. Kent and Lambton counties, are becoming 

 noted for their possibilities in the croduction of vegetables. Vegetables are grown on a scale 

 unknown elsewhere in Ontario. Many are shiuped across the border and up the lakes. This crop 



was grown near Sarnia. 



ter vegetables and flowers for home use. 

 If the supply exceeds the needs, there 

 is generally a profitable market for such 

 prooucts. 



Potato Storage 



Two distinct types of storage rot may 

 occur on potatoes. Both are common. 

 The tuber may become infected with a 

 dry rot in which case it gradually 

 shrivels up, becomes powdery, and 

 changes to a light brownish color; or 

 a soft rot may occur in which the tuber 

 is rapidly reduced to a soft shiny foul- 

 smelling mass. 



The organisms causing these rots, 

 attack the potatoes either through 

 wounds or following the attack of the 

 wilt fungus. Primary infection may 

 occur in the field and spread to healthy 

 potatoes when the latter are placed un- 

 der improper storage conditions. 



It it iiTiportant therefore to reject all 

 tubers showing any signs of rot at dig- 

 ging time, and to provide a dry, well 

 ventilated cellar for storage. A storage 

 cellar that is warm and moist is very 

 favorable for the rapid growth of the 

 rot inducing organisms. The tempera- 

 ture of the storage cellar should be kept 

 as close to 35 degrees F. as possible. 

 Great care should be taken to avoid 

 bruising' the potatoes in digging and 

 handling. 



The most certain and satisfactory way 

 to ascertain the vitality of vegetable 

 seeds is to plant them in soil under ac- 

 tual conditions rather than make sprout- 

 ing tests in various devices. 



Vegetable Reminders 



Squash and pumpkins keep best in a 

 warm, dry place. 



Clean straw from four to six inches 

 deep should be placed on strawberries. 



Go over the cabbage and other vege- 

 tables stored in the cellar and pick out 

 the diseased specimens. 



Cut and burn the foliage of the as- 

 paragus bed. 



Prepare soil for next season's hotbed. 

 Cover this deeply with horse manure so 

 it will not freeze during the winter. 



Fall plowing of the garden destroys 

 cutworms and other insects, beside get- 

 ting rid of fall weeds. 



Go over the garden and burn all rub- 

 bish remaining. This will destroy many 

 insects. 



Carrots, beets, and salsify keep bet- 

 ter if covered with a small amount of 

 sand to prevent drying out. 



Squash and pumpkins should be stor- 

 ed in a dry cellar or building where the 

 temperature is between fifty and sixty 

 degrees. Only mature specimens should 

 be used, and these should be handled 

 carefully to prevent injury. 



Snow will be flying in many sections 

 before the month closes. No time should 

 lie lost in attending to fall work. Just 

 so miich must be done, and the safe 

 |)olicy is to make haste before rough, 

 stormy weather interferes. 



The hardy onions should be mulched 

 with coarse material as manure, straw 

 or old hay, after the ground is frozen. 



The cold frames and hotlx'ds should 

 be cleaned of weeds or rubbish which 

 would interfere with their use later in 



the winter. Such rubbish also harbors 

 mice, which are so annoying sometimes 

 in frame work. 



Horse radish, salsify, and parsnips are 

 hardy roots and may be left in the 

 ground all winter without danger of 

 loss. There is a demand for these roots, 

 however, throughout the winter and pro- 

 fits may be made larger and tne spring 

 work lighter by storing some of the roots 

 to sell during the winter. 



Make certain to have enough soil 

 stored to start early vegetable plants. 

 It should be selected from fields where 

 troublesome diseases have not been 

 known to occur. 



Celery trenching should be well under 

 way in many sections, where there is a 

 large crop to be handled. Early trench- 

 ing is a disadvantage to long keeping, 

 but it is usually necessary to start the 

 work soon after November i when there 

 is a large amount to be stored. 



The storing of late cabbage should al- 

 so be delayed as long as possible. Bury- 

 ing is one of the best methods to keep 

 the heads bright and crisp. Any me- 

 thod of burying is troublesome, but it 

 usually pays to care for at least a por- 

 tion of the crop by this method, unless 

 special storage houses are available. 



It does not usually pay to store vege- 

 tables which can be sold at fair prices 

 in the fall. The grower should always 

 take into account the cost of storing, 

 risk of losing part of crop, shrinkage, 

 and additional expense in preparing for 

 market. 



A supply of rhubarb may be had dur- 

 ing the winter if a few clumps are 

 taken up before the ground freezes and 

 put in boxes or on the cellar floor. 

 These clumps may be broken into pieces 

 and covered about one inch deep with 

 soil. Water thoroughly and keep dark, 

 so that only a small leaf surface will be 

 formed. It is well to let the roots freeze 

 until about December twentieth. 



The forcing of rhubarb is a profitable 

 industry where there is equipment for 

 such work. The old roots may be dug 

 in the fall, and the large roots used for 

 forcing during the winter and the 

 smaller ones replanted in the open the 

 following spring. 



Rhubarb forcing may begin at any 

 time. If the ground is not frozen too 

 hard, a mould-board plow may be run 

 along one side of the row and the roots 

 may then be removed with ease. Allow 

 them to freeze a few days before plant- 

 ing. Then store a supply in an out- 

 building, cover with soil and hold them 

 for later planting. 



Onions may be forced in warm cellars. 

 The partial darkness will make the stems 

 more tender. If soil is placed between 

 I he stems as the tops grow it will in- 

 crease the length of the white tender 

 portion. 



