March 12, 1903. 



THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



167 



chamber hive, each chamber to have the capacity of ahoiil 4 

 Langstroth frames. In width it is the same as the Sframe 

 dovetailed, and its length !(> inches. The net measurements 

 areS'+ deep, 12 wide and Id 1-16 long. The frame is 5xli), 

 usual spacing and closed-end standing-style. The reason 

 for adopting this size is that it will conform to the 4x5 sec- 

 tion. I believe I can get better finish in the 4x5 section than 

 in the 4'+ x4'4 — it conforms better by being higher than its 

 width. If the sections would fit as well, and lumber would 

 work as well, and covers were as easily made for a wider 

 hive as for the narrower, I would prefer to have the brood- 

 chamber the same in width each way, but 24 sections gives 

 me so close to the ideal that I have settled on that shape — 

 12x16 for length and width, and a 5-ioch deep frame. Six- 

 inch lumber will cut either super or brood-chamber, and the 

 same body is to be used more or less interchangeable and 

 for either purpose. 



In using such a hive I have found some things that 

 would not be expected. Suppose I hive a swarm onto sections 

 of this hive — its capacity 8 Langstroth frames — work will, 

 as usual, be begun in the top section, and almost immedi- 

 ately I can put on a super and have it occupied. There is a 

 tendency to work upward from the starting point, or rather 

 to work above it. As I understand it, it is this way : The 

 colony having started in the top or second section of the 

 brood-chamber, if a super be then added above and honey 

 is being stored, they feel that they ought to store the honey 

 above the brood that is being reared, so that in practice I 

 have had, when swarms were hived, the colonies to fill one 

 section of the brood-chamber and one or more supers, and 

 that when there was an empty brood-chamber below of 4 

 Langstroth frames capacity. I think it is unusual to get 

 much super work over a set of frames in the Langstroth 

 hives until there is no more room below in which to store. 



The main points are in having a hive that conforms to 

 the natural conditions as much as possible — one that when 

 there is no super on will be to the best advantage and lik- 

 ing of the bees. As supers are on but a small portion of the 

 year, why not have the hive so it will be normal the whole 

 time, if possible, and not one or two months out of the 

 twelve, and these one or two the very ones in which there is 

 the less need of economy of heat, and of conformity to in- 

 stinct and inclination of the bees. The greatest need, and 

 the time that taxes the apiarist the most to succeed, is in 

 the wintering and springing — if only we can get the bees 

 for the harvest we can manage the harvesting problem. 

 Give me the hive and system that will put more bees in the 

 field for action in time for the flow, and I will very largely 

 increase my profits. The great problem is to get ready for 

 the harvest, and I want the hive that will help in that direc- 

 tion : that done, I will get the honey. 



If Mr. Doolittle reads this he will no doubt try to ridi- 

 cule my ideas, and say he doesn't want his bees brooding 

 sticks and spaces as they would have to do when there are 

 so many frames, and bottom and top bars all through the 

 hive. I do not want them there, either, I would gladly do 

 away with them if I could, but how can I ? The same width 

 and depth of hive serves the bees just as well if there be no 

 sticks at all from cover to floor, but we cannot contract nor 

 ever make a success of comb honey with the constantly deep 

 brood-chamber, at least with present knowledge. I have 

 used frames as deep as 15 inches, and as shallow as 4'+ 

 inches, outside measure, and I am making, and have made, 

 a success of so very shallow frames. I have for several 

 years had bees on a 4 '4' deep frames, and they make colonies 

 equal to anything on Langstroth or Gallup frames. The 

 sticks are an aggravation, and the people who so strenuously 

 object to them do just as Mr. Doolittle does — have two sets 

 of sticks between every two supers. 



Mr. Doolittle kicks about a few sticks in the brood- 

 chamber, and not so long ago stormed about the thick top- 

 bars to brood-frames, but now he uses a great quantity of 

 lumber in his top-bars and adds still more to it by having a 

 space above these^bars and above that another set of sticks 

 before the bees come to the sections ; and if he wants to 

 put on a second super two more sets of sticks are between 

 the first and second sets of sections. Objectors to the sticks 

 and spaces, all overlook the fact that usually the colony is 

 confined to the space between two sets of sticks at the sea- 

 son of the year when the economy of heat is most needed, 

 for the greater part, and when the colony becomes strong 

 enough to cross the sticks and cluster on both sides of them, 

 then they can rear brood in a ten-bushel box about as well 

 as anywhere. 



I am not advocating a wholesale change of hives. I am 

 not yet throwing away other hives to adopt the new-faiiffled 

 divisible brood-chamber hive. I am using both 8 and 10 



frame dovetailed, and other styles of Langstroth hives, 

 American frames, and several others. It is after having 

 used a great variety in style and size of hive and frame 

 that I come to the conclusions that I have, but having seen 

 the demonstration of the principles, I point out to the 

 fraternity the findings that all who can may benefit there- 

 by. There is a future for the shallow sectional style of 

 hive which becomes in fact a large hive, but it is not going 

 to put all other hives in the fence-corner at once. I am con- 

 fident that those using 8-frame hives can make good use of 

 that style and get the practical application of the large-hive 

 principle just as I have out-lined by using two stories and 

 then contracting, and I firmly believe that in nine cases out 

 of ten it will be found quite profitable if properly applied. 



The wintering troubles in the ordinary hive are in many 

 cases largely overcome by the use of cellars, but the large 

 hive and colony will go far toward solving the cellar- 

 problem. 1 note that I am by no means alone in the elastic- 

 hive question, and in the large-hive matter there is a host 

 of believers. Mr. Doolittle has for years been advocating 

 the same principles, but reaches the goal by another route. 



Larimer Co., Colo. 



\ Our Bee-Heeping Sisters j^ 



Conducted bu EMMft M. WILSON, Marengo, 111. 



Starting in Bee-Keeping. 



I am sudde-jly thrown on my own resources for sup- 

 port, and as my home is in a rich alfalfa district f believe I 

 could do well keeping bees, but I do not understand the busi- 

 ness, and there is no one here from whom I can obtain in- 

 struction. I write you to know where I can go for thorough 

 instruction in all departments of the business. 



Would it be best to try for a situation with a skilled 

 apiarist ? I want to devote my time to the work, and get a 

 practical knowledge of the business as thoroughly as I can, 

 and as soon as possible. Mrs. E. K. Hoffmax. 



Phillips Co., Kan., Feb. 20. 



You are fortunate indeed to be in a rich alfalfa district, 

 if you are going into the bee-business, as large crops of 

 beautiful honey come to bless those that live in the alfalfa 

 districts. But there is another thing to be considered : Is 

 the ground fullv occupied by other bee-keepers ? If so, it 

 would be trespassing for you to start another apiary. It 

 may be that the coast is entirely clear, in which case you 

 are fortunate. 



In some of the State agricultural schools they give in- 

 struction in bee-keeping, but I do not know whether they 

 do or not in Kansas. 



I think it would be the very best thing you could do to 

 try for a situation with a skilled apiarist. Of course, the 

 nearer home you could obtain such a position the better it 

 would be for you. . , , 



You might try putting an advertisement in the Ameri- 

 can Bee Journal. I should think that would be the quickest 

 way to obtain such a situation. 



There are many things about the business that you 

 must learn from the bees themselves, and if you are fortu- 

 nate enough thus to get the benefit of the knowledge of a 

 skilled apiarist, it will no doubt save you many dollars and 

 cents. In the meantime, I should advise you to put in your 

 time until spring studying a text-book, getting as thor- 

 oughly posted as possible in bee-lore. It will be a great 

 help to you. 



Water for Bees. 



It seems a little out of season to talk about watering 

 your bees, if, as in a good many localities, they are snugly 

 housed in the cellar at the present moment. However, it is 

 well to anticipate their wants. Indeed, there may not be 

 any anticipation in the case where the bees are wintered 

 out-of-doors. Just as soon as there comes a day warm 

 enough for them to fly, one of the first things they will do 

 is to start in search of water. 



Bees are hard drinkers, and it is a matter of some im- 

 portance that they have easy access to plenty of pure water 



