ROCK GARDEN CONSTRUCTION 15 



soil. The practice of thrusting pointed fragments of 

 rock into the ground, so that they resemble rows of 

 jagged teeth, is particularly unfortunate. Lines of natural 

 stratification should be simulated where possible, as this 

 produces a more restful and coherent effect than aimless 

 dotting. 



If the stones are of small size, and the rock garden 

 slopes abruptly, it will be necessary to build an occa- 

 sional course of dry-walling, otherwise the earth will 

 slip forward after heavy rain. The walling must be 

 built very carefully, as it is important that all trace 

 of builder's work shall be concealed. Choosing the 

 largest stones available, a single course should be laid 

 somewhere about the ground level. The earth must be 

 well rammed, and the spaces between adjacent stones 

 filled with soil. A thick layer of soil is now placed 

 above the stones, in the same way that mortar is spread 

 between lines of bricks. A second course of stones 

 is now put into position, no idea of uniformity in size 

 being entertained. The dry-walling is carried up as far 

 as necessary ; in the case of almost perpendicular slopes, 

 it will be convenient to make a series of ledges, as 

 these permit of freer planting, and serve to break the 

 monotony. 



When setting the stones, it is desirable that each 

 should be placed so that it tilts slightly backwards, in 

 other words, the front faces are not perpendicular. Not 

 only does this serve to strengthen the wall, but the rain, 

 collecting in tiny runnels, soaks into the earth crevices 

 and refreshes the plants. This rule holds good as 

 regards the disposition of all stones and rocks in the 

 Alpine garden. Shelter is not needed for the majority 

 of such plants, and the "penthouse" method of placing 

 rocks, simply produces dry pockets of soil, in which 

 plants struggle vainly for existence. 



These sections of dry-walling, which are necessary in 



