SOIL 7 



Nature has given us to its advantage. Mr Cranston 

 gave a number of useful hints on the improvement of 

 different kinds of soils for the purposes of Rose-growing. 

 In the case of all soils the first thing is to see that the 

 drainage is satisfactory. After being assured that the 

 drainage of the soil is perfect, let the ground intended 

 for the Rose-garden be trenched to a depth of at least 

 2 feet, and thrown up into ridges as the work 

 proceeds. If this is done in the Autumn a few frosts 

 and drying winds will soon make the stiffest soil friable 

 and good to work, and when it is sufficiently dry, 

 mellow and pulverised, let it be levelled down and 

 formed into beds, or otherwise arranged for the 

 reception of the plants. A few weeks before the time 

 of planting the ground should be again dug to a depth 

 of about 1 8 inches, and a liberal supply of good 

 rotten manure should be incorporated with it. As 

 giving an idea of the amount of manure commonly 

 needed it may be given as a fair average to allow one 

 barrow-load of manure to every 8 square feet of 

 the ground. Gravelly or sandy soils are on the whole 

 the most difficult of treatment. They can be greatly 

 benefited by the addition of leaf mould and meadow 

 loam, and by very liberal dressings of manure. It is also 

 a good plan to keep their surface well mulched with 

 manure, especially during the Summer, so as to prevent 

 excessive evaporation. On a chalky subsoil Roses 

 thrive, provided there is at least 1 8 inches of 

 loam on top. Should the loam be shallower than this 

 it will be necessary to make holes about 18 inches 

 deep and large enough to take about half a wheel-barrow 

 full of compost, consisting of two-thirds meadow loam 

 and " one-third rotten farmyard manure well mixed 

 together. It is the experience of most growers that 

 even the lightest and poorest soil can be made to grow 

 Roses successfully if only it be deeply dug and kept 



