30 THE BOOK OF ROSES 



the cuttings planted firmly, with earth pressed hard 

 round their bases. This firm planting is of the utmost 

 importance. A plentiful watering immediately on plant- 

 ing is also very essential to success. The bell-glasses 

 are then put on, and are subsequently removed as seldom 

 as possible, the great thing being to preserve the plants 

 from evaporation, and the consequent drying of their 

 bark. Every cutting whose bark shrivels up is prac- 

 tically useless. At the beginning of the time, that is at 

 the end of September, the sun is strong enough to make 

 it imperative to completely shade the bell-glasses, but as 

 the weather grows cooler this precaution is less necessary. 

 For the first fortnight M. Grosdemange recommends 

 that the glasses be shaded with matting, and afterwards, 

 until the end of October, when shade is no longer re- 

 quired, with hurdles. Inspect the cuttings from time 

 to time, and remove fallen leaves and weeds. When the 

 cold weather sets in the glasses will need an almost 

 complete covering with dry litter, only the tops being 

 left uncovered, and even these should be covered at 

 night with mats. Whenever there is a mild spell 

 during the Winter give them as much light as possible. 

 In the last few days of February, when the hard winter 

 is practically over, the litter may be removed, and air 

 given to the cuttings whenever the sun shines ; and in 

 the latter end of March, when the cuttings have struck 

 root and their buds are beginning to shoot, the glasses 

 will only be needed at night. In the first fortnight of 

 April the young Roses are planted out into pots in soil 

 similar to that of the striking bed but slightly heavier, 

 and stood in a close frame for from 2 to 3 weeks, which 

 gives the plants a fair start in their individual existence. 

 At the end of April they will be found fit for the open 

 ground. 



