88 THE BOOK OF ROSES 



When all danger from these causes is over, the strongest 

 shoots should be chosen and all the others removed. 

 The art of thinning out is one which holds an important 

 place in the growing of show Roses, and can only be 

 properly learned by experience and experiment. As a 

 rough rule, however, the most likely growths to bear 

 good flowers are those which spring from the top buds 

 of the pruned shoots. The very strong sucker-like 

 shoots which will be found at the base of the plant 

 should never be retained, as they are not only unduly 

 hungry but generally bear only coarse blooms, quite 

 unfit for exhibition. 



The selected shoots will at last begin to show flower 

 buds, usually three to each shoot, and of these one only 

 must be allowed to remain. The middle one is usually 

 chosen and the other two buds carefully removed. The 

 next care is the provision of shade, as a strong sun or a 

 sudden shower of rain may spoil the work of months. 

 The simplest form of shade is one made of wire in the 

 shape of a cone, 12 inches across and about 9 inches 

 high. This should be covered with calico stretched 

 tight, and should be so arranged that it can slide up 

 and down a rod, pierced with small holes in which a pin 

 can be inserted to hold the shade at any given height. 

 A simple form of protector which is recommended by 

 some growers is merely a piece of parchment-like tissue 

 paper put over the bud like a bag, and tied round the 

 stem below it. Enough room must of course be left for 

 the bud to expand, and these wrappings will be found 

 to protect the bloom from every normal downpour. 



Rose boxes for sending the blooms up for exhibition 

 should be bought, as they are made in definite regulation 

 sizes, and are admirably adapted for their purpose. They 

 all have a tray pierced with holes for the reception of 

 the tubes which hold the blooms. 



The time for cutting the blooms must depend upon 



